Arkansas Wildlife Photography

1/29/12 Elk Viewing, First Wildflower for 2012

2012-01-29T09:12:00.000-08:00

This morning after surveying the elk herd locations, on a hunch I walked a part of Lost Valley hiking trail looking for wildflowers. Our weather is now abnormal, I worry that is it permanent, and the daffodils are up and not blooming, but everything seems to be ahead of schedule. This poor flower bloomed in the recent warm weather and was drooped over in the morning frost. This is VERY early. I do have a witness too. I believe the plant is a toothwort, it is pretty tiny.

Don't forget frost blossoms in the early mornings. They are a great photographic subject and will fine tune your exposure control.

I will be doing a special entry on wildflowers this week.

The elk were following the recent patterns pretty well. There is one herd in zone 1 that is rotating between the woods, vacant Ponca fields, and the woods to the west of 43 behind the Ponca Bible Camp (private land). The second herd is down by the 43/21 intersection and they were close to the road this morning, actually on both sides of the road.

Frost Blossom Lost Valley 1/29/12

Remember bull elk keep their antlers until about April 1. The two herds have been viewable now in about the same locations for about two weeks. They are bothering no farmer since they avoid cattle. The herd down by 43/21 is grazing in fields that were planted as a food plot to attract elk. Certainly there is no complaint there.

This is just outstanding weather to hike. I recommend taking a hike in Lost Valley. The falls are running hard and the forest floor is now coming to life. There is something to be said for the beautiful cutting light that animates forest trails during leaf off. As my attention gradually turns to wildflowers, I like to hike there often to see the entire wildflower cycle from the first sprouts through the climax of the season.

If I were homeschooling a child or just teaching kids about nature, the unfolding from now through the spring offers many lessons not only about plant species, but the dynamics of micro environments in the valley. It is also a great time to teach geology.

1/27/12 Update, Elk and Bald Eagles, Great Weather

2012-01-27T09:30:00.000-08:00

This promises to be a perfect weekend for winter hiking and sightseeing. If you have been hanging back for ideal weather to shake off your cabin fever, this would be the weekend to visit. Today is just perfect and heading into the 60's, a nice mid-winter treat.

This morning there were two elk herds in Boxley Valley and there was a bald eagle at the mill pond. The mill pond has a lot of ducks right now, and the trumpeter swans were flying and landing. All of these are great subjects for photographers and wildlife watchers.

The waterfalls should be pretty good. We have had a lot of rain and it is still running off pretty well. The river is also running well and up for cold weather floating with a wet suit.

Today for the first time in quite a while I saw an outstanding white-winged crow. These birds are rare, but there is a great specimen right now around the 43/21 intersection.

Today's map is below:

1/21/12 I Elk Herd, Bald Eagle at Mill Pond

2012-01-21T10:04:00.000-08:00

Only about 35 elk in the valley this morning, all focused down on the south end. A late rutting bull is with a number of cow elk down by Cave Mountain Road, south of the river. A small bull herd is south of the 43/21 intersection on the east side of the road.

Like most days, none of the elk were on grazing land. This is pretty standard in Boxley Valley. Talk of elk and cattle is nonsense, elk hate cattle and avoid them. Resting fields have no grass and the elk go elsewhere. 50% of the time they forage in the cane line and in the woods. Let's get the facts straight. There is no farmer elk problem.

Yesterday there were 2 bald eagles at the mill pond, but today only 1. Still they do roost on snags just behind the pond and are an easy shot with a long lens.

Today's elk map:

January 21, 2012 Elk Herd Map, Ponca, Arkansas

Learning Composition -- Questioning & Visualization

2012-01-20T14:46:00.000-08:00

This Picture is an Elk Painting Animated by Angular Light
Elk Photos are Elk in Context -- That is the next level

I got a note the other day I have not answered, mostly because I don't have a simple answer. The questioner wanted to know how I get the elk pictures I get, what advice I could offer. I have been thinking about it from two perspectives. First, how do I take elk pictures. Second, how did I teach myself to take elk pictures (or anything else for that matter).

Anyone who reads what I write knows that in my mind, composition is the point of photography. Everything else is secondary. Good composition transcends equipment, bad composition is indifferent to great equipment. Composition is the key. It is composition that communicates.

So, how do you take pictures of a new subject? I know my basic approach is to deconstruct the subject, then look at composition of the "chunks", then reconstruct the subject combining the chunks. I break the subject into parts that move, and parts that don't move. I also look at context, the setting, the time of day.

I spend a lot of time practicing composition through visualization away from the camera. Careful thought can equip you with "virtual experience" that you can draw on when opportunities arise. Research supports visualization as real practice.

Sounds pretty simple eh? Let's look at elk composition as an example:

Driving Legs and Counterpointing Antlers Make This Post-Rut
Sparring Pretty Good -- Better Than Statues Tapping Antlers

Deconstructing the Animal For many years now when I see a subject I see a collection of shapes that combine to make the whole animal. The head looks like a triangle, the body like a rough rectangle, the legs like sticks, straight, crossing or bent, the neck like a strip, the haunches like ovals superimposed over the body, antlers like hoops, unique shadows, and so on. Static shapes.

Movement moves these shapes in relation to one another. Is the elk twisting, or head up or down, or is the head folded over the body? Is the body straight on or angled? Are its lines resonating with other lines in the composition? Is its movement counterpointed with another elk? And how? How do they counterpoint? Dynamic movements.

There is a larger message in this madness (if you haven't walked away). Good composition hinges on great questions. It is the quality of your questions that will drive your understanding. Tip: When you are stuck, try to dig out the question you are answering. You probably need to ask a better question to get to the next level. This applies to just about everything I have learned in life. Experts ask great questions. Figure out the questions and you will learn very fast. Do not shop answers. Questions matter most.

Deconstructing the Context Animal photography occurs in a natural setting. That context includes light of all sorts and angles, contour, geology, fence lines, tree lines, tree trunks, curves like streams and swails, buildings, roads, etc. And so on. It seems impossible, you need a great combination of the animal and its context to get a killer photo.

Putting it Back Together -- Reconstruction and Synthesis
Now we return to visualization. This is where what seems hopelessly complex comes together. In your mind's eye, assemble your subject, elk in this case, into a context you know. Visualize what you consider to be ideal images based on these elements. Because you are visualizing, words fall away and reconstruction now becomes easier.

Trust the Unconventional, Juxtapose the Unexpected
I Chased this Photo for Years After Pre-visulalizing It

I have used this analogy a few times, but it fits. Athletes deconstruct their movements, learn new ones, then drill incessantly until they instinctively do the right thing. This discipline never ends.

When you take your photography to another level, you need to take apart what you do, take apart your subject and the context, ask great questions about combinations, then, and only then, visualize what you seek away from the camera. This visualization will inform your compositional voice. It will also sharpen your anticipation in the field.

Creative expression is a blissful, but focused practice. The pathway to an unending stairway of improvement is focus, questioning, deconstruction, reconstruction, and visualization. You need to do this for every new subject. While much is the same about different subjects, much is different. You will never get the final picture of any subject, but you will be on an unfolding path to deeper engagement and mastery of your subjects and art.

My gift to any student is to help them become excellent questioners and self-learners. A great philosopher Exupery said education is not a forcing in (answers), but rather a leading out (questions). I hold to this. Ask me a question, and I will ask you to question. You have gifts that I can see in you that you need to trust. You don't need my answers.

1/20/12 Fog, But 30 Elk, 2 Otter and 2 Bald Eagles

2012-01-20T09:07:00.000-08:00

Typical Post-Rut Bull Herd, Prince and the Boys

Today there was only one herd in the valley and it was in the field adjacent to the Ponca Access. Because of the weather, I think the elk around the 43/21 intersection were holed up.

The high point this morning was otter feeding in the Boxley Mill Pond. I watched them for about a half hour swimming in the north end of the pond under the watchful gaze of two bald eagles. I have seen otter in the mill pond recently a few times. If you visit keep your eyes peeled for them.

This weekend should be excellent for all kinds of photography. These frontal changes and somewhat stormy weather generally provide diffuse light and nice cloud formations. If you like to take landscape photos, partly cloudy weather definitely beats a cloudless blue sky.

Updated map is below. There are now about 30 elk visible in the valley.

1/19/12 Great Elk Viewing, Beautiful Weather

2012-01-19T12:49:00.000-08:00

Prince in Bachelor Bull Herd

This morning there were two herds in the valley. One near Ponca, the second around the 43/21 intersection. Neither herd was in a field that competed with livestock. This is pretty standard.

I got a nice picture of Prince, a few actually. He has put on some weight since the rut. His focus is now on eating and recovering from the rut.

Absolutely perfect elk viewing weather for this weekend. Photographers will want to consider landscapes as well.

More later.

Imagination and Communication in Photography

2012-01-15T15:15:00.000-08:00

Description begins in the writer’s imagination, but should finish in the reader's."
Stephen King

So too in photography.

Gifts Given and Moment's Captured to be Shared

Your artistic expression must charge straight into the imagination of your viewer. Leave it to a writer to distill the essence of our craft.

This reminds me of a recent session with a workshop participant. I had her bring photos that she loved but felt there was something missing. I took one of her images and interpreted it, and asked her if this edit was what she saw. She said yes, that is it exactly. It was a little spooky for her I think.

If one examines an image with the heart, looking for the expression that must be there, it can be revealed in post processing. Ansel Adams had it right when he said the negative is the score, and the print is the performance.

We must not lose sight of the fact that cameras come up short in capturing light. They get about half the tonal range of what you see in reality. Often this means they do not capture the intimations of your heart.

In the place behind your reason, you feel why you took certain photos. You were drawn to them intuitively. You might think the composition to death, but there is that other dimension. Be courageous in your post processing to restore your creative vision. Open up your heart's expression to finish in your viewers heart.

1/15/12 Elk Viewing Outstanding

2012-01-15T14:37:00.000-08:00

Winter Dawn in Boxley Valley

This morning there were 3 photographers in Boxley Valley besides me. I knew one of them and he came from Ft. Smith to do one thing, photograph elk. I don't know about the others, but I did not recognize them, I suspect they came from other areas if not other states.

Big Bull at Sunrise by 43/21

Mind you this is the dead season for tourism. People come to this area to do two things in winter. Hike and watch the elk. This is a needed income injection for our area, one that should not be dismissed. Looked at correctly, everyone in positions of authority should understand how fundamentally important elk viewing is in Boxley Valley. It is not about just the valley, it is about the region and the state.

Any consideration of hunting elk in Boxley Valley is absolute economic suicide. Game and Fish must walk away from this hunt idea. There are plenty of places to hunt elk. With a tiny herd, there is no reason to hunt in Boxley Valley. We cannot afford to take the tourism loss.

There were two herds in the valley this morning. One in the south Ponca fields and a second around the 43/21 intersection. It was just beautiful to see the elk in the frosty fields. There were some strays other places in the valley.

Below is the map for today's elk herds.

1/11/12 Elk Herd Map & Report

2012-01-11T18:43:00.000-08:00

Elk viewing was good today. There was only one herd of any significance in Boxley Valley and it was in the south end down by Smith Creek. That field has been hands down the best field for the last six months. It is not worked and is fallow. The elk seem to love it with its abundant grass and river right behind the field.

This herd still has a major bull working it. He showed some "running" gestures this morning, a surprise this late after the rut.

This morning I got a picture of Prince sparring. Computer problems have prevented me from posting it today, but I was re-assured to see this magnificent national class bull today. He is the rarest of the rare.

There were some bulls sprinkled here and there, but mostly except for this one herd, the valley was vacant. Often the valley is completely vacation. The diet of an elk is only about 50% grass according to biologists, so they spend a lot of time eating along roadsides and in the woods.

It is difficult to understand how so few elk can be considered a problem by those dedicated to hollering that they are a nuisance. When weighed against the extraordinary tourist traffic and revenues generated by elk viewing, expanding and now in all seasons, surely any talk of hunting in Boxley Valley is self-defeating madness.

There must be no elk hunting of any sort in Boxley Valley. There are plenty of places to hunt, but to foul a multi-state tourism magnet is plain foolish. It is also not safe, but that is not the point. The point is tourism, and badly needed tourism that must be protected in a down economy that continues to deteriorate. We need to wake up people in authority and kill any proposal for hunting in Boxley Valley permanently. It is misguided and self-defeating when we need tourism revenues.

Let's remedy the farmer complaints by paying them for damages and grazing competition.

Our leaders should not lose sight of the fact that Missouri has started an elk herd. Missouri wants our elk tourism. We should not make it easy for Missouri to take our elk tourists by hunting in Boxley Valley.

Ozark Wildlfower Season 2 Months Off

2012-01-10T06:10:00.000-08:00

Crested Iris -- Lost Valley

Mark your calendars to visit for spring wildflower season. The spring season runs from late March until about the first of June. The easiest way to time the beginning of the season is to track the emergence of daffodils. When the daffodils are ready to bloom, the very first wildflowers should be in bloom.

Wild flower season follows pretty predictable patterns each year, but the blooming dates shift around according to weather and micro environment. This can move peak blooming dates a week or so.

Maybe the most interesting part of this is micro environmental factors. Lowlands and hollers bloom first and mountains much later. There seems to be a difference in bloom times in different hollers. For example, Lost Valley is about a week ahead of Smith Creek Preserve.

Selective Light and Dreamy Bokeh Convey the
Emotion of Spring Wildflowers -- Lost Valley

Some of the destinations favor certain wildflowers. For example, Smith Creek Preserve is great for Dutchman's Breeches, Lost Valley has a great Ozark Wake Robin (trillium) bloom.

Remember that there are early species and late species. The bloom dates between them can be over a month. To get all the species you need to make many visits and visit different locations.

Make this the year you start a "bucket list" for wildflowers. My bucket list has gone beyond collecting species and now includes getting better poses for each species. I will do a few different posts on wildflowers in the coming weeks.

You never actually "get" a flower species, your compositions show different moments in composition, time and light. My belief is that taking pictures of wildflowers is a powerful way to strengthen your compositional skills. When you see a great wildflower picture, you are witnessing the command of the camera, an understanding of existing light, the play of color, and negative space, etc.

Because wildflower photography is deceptively difficult, working at wildflower photography will carry over to all your photography. Wildflower photography is more than a great time, it will strengthen all your skills. The 2012 season is now just a bit over 2 months away.

1/10/2012 Updated Elk Viewing Report & Map

2012-01-10T05:16:00.000-08:00

There was only one herd in Boxley Valley the last two visits. It has been located in the southernmost field near Smith Creek on the south end of the valley. This was probably the best single location to view elk in 2011. The field is largely fallow and it is close to quality refuge and water.

Elk graze in the woodlands about as much as in pastures. This year's outstanding acorn harvest has given them many food choices. Perhaps they have spent a bit more time in the woodlands that other recent years.

Latest location map is below:

Elk Viewing Excellent 1/6/12

2012-01-06T08:39:00.000-08:00

This morning there were 3 herds in the Boxley Valley fields. In addition, there were two small groups of bulls in post-rut herds. Overall I would rate the elk viewing as excellent and pretty much covering the valley from end to end. It very seldom gets better than this.

One of the bulls has a wound on his back. I have been emailed about him. I saw him this morning and he seems to be healing well. He lost a pretty big piece of hide last year, possibly in a hunting injury, but it is not clear to me how it happened. The good news is that he seems to have scabbed over and looks healthy.

This is a perfect weekend to visit and see the elk. This weather is ideal for hiking with moderate temperatures and outstanding leaf-off scenery.

See the map for details on the elk herd locations. These are pretty reliable between updates of the map. There are more elk now in the valley than in a while.

New Year's Elk Viewing & Locations

2012-01-01T15:00:00.000-08:00

Today there were three herds in Boxley Valley -- two of them were large.

For many days now there has been one herd in the Ponca fields north of the observation pullout near Lost Valley. Other days it has been up closer to the launch in the northern most field. When we went past there this morning the elk were still in plain view at 9AM.

The second large herd has been around the 43/21 intersection now for a few days.

The third herd is an all bull herd in the first field north of the Buffalo River down by Cave Mountain Road. This is just a few animals, but they are large. Most people will not see them because they are quite far from the road -- Highway 21.

Remember to check Lost Valley when you visit. Today that Ponca herd was quite close to Lost Valley and could well rotate into those fields tonight.

Be safe. Elk viewing will be great for months yet.

Steps to Photo Mastery in 2012

2012-01-01T14:24:00.000-08:00

This first day of 2012 was perfect. This was a morning of fewer opportunities but it was wonderful to be out shooting and just walking around. Old photographers, like old hunters, appreciate just being out there. There is no bad day with the camera, especially in the wild.

This morning I hiked a short upper wilderness stretch of the Buffalo National River, known as the Hailstone. Yesterday I got pictures of otter in a nearby farm pond. Otter often move every day and today was no different. I bet on a couple of upstream pools that might hold them today but that turned out to be wrong. I thought it was no better than a 30% shot that I would see them -- it was OK.

Long Scale, Two Colors, Shapes & Lines
Winter Photography is a Time to Learn

I did get a decent landscape, but like most winter river landscapes it is austere. I consider winter the best time to work on your skills as a photographer. I love the simplicity.

I stalk through the ice, detritus and steel blue water shopping patterns and long tonal scales. What were bright colors are now shades of brown. This is a season that favors black and white, and minimalists like me.

I practice one fundamental exercise with many variations. I challenge myself to find photos where there seem to be none. Generally I will do this with one lens. There is no distraction from the task at hand. My goal and focus is to find photos where there seem to be none.

At its base, a photo is a symphony of colors, lines, shapes and tonal values organized in a pleasing pattern. You task is to recognize what is plainly in front of you, then make choices about what to include, and what to throw away. This includes choosing with your heart. It is a simple idea, but tough to pull off.

Becoming more thoughtful about the creative process of deconstruction and reconstruction will be one key to your success. There is such a thing as talent, but there is nothing here that cannot be taught and improve anyone's skills. Even the talented, perhaps especially the talented, need to understand what they do naturally through deconstruction if they are to reach the next level.

The point of practice some ways is to make the intuitive deliberate then more deeply intuitive, in a deepening cycle of learning. Much as athletes do drills regardless of skill level, photographers must do their drills regardless of skill level. Pablo Casals, the great cellist said that one day without practice and he would notice it, two days without practice and his audience would notice it.

The point is this, the path to mastery has no final destination. We all travel this path. If we work at our craft, we continue down the mastery path closer to the destination that will never be reached. If we do our exercises, we will move down that path more quickly. The satisfaction comes in the learning process, and experiencing days like today. Surely one thing learned along the path to mastery is that accepting what nature gives us is blessing enough.

The Thinking Side of Photography

2011-12-26T08:56:00.000-08:00

Lately I have been meditating on my free February workshop presentation to the Harrison Camera Club. The topic is Wildlife, Wild Flowers & Wild Hairs. It is important to me not to be entirely serious. I am certain there is wisdom in stepping back from certainty and understanding that all things are "wiggly", the world is about verbs mostly and few nouns intrude. This includes all rules, mine included.

My core focus will be on "wild hairs". I think about photography a lot. I deconstruct, take apart, the creative process believing that careful thinking is the most important creative tool any photographer has. Put another way, "your head should always be attached" when you take photos. It is true that serendipitous photos come your way if you are hacking around, but you can get better results if you re-attach your head.

Here is a short list of my personal wild hairs about photography:

Pre-visualization & Light

Great photos tell stories. To quote poet Muriel Rukeyser "The universe is made of stories, not atoms". Like stories, pictures range from haiku to novels. You will succeed the extent to which you tell a story. Does your photography evoke emotions?
Equipment is not photography any more than brushes are painting. I really get fatigued over this confusion. My recommendation on equipment is that you should not buy before you hit a creative barrier in your actual picture taking. The time may come when the lack of a certain lens will matter, or not. Toting 25 lenses mostly hurts your back, it does not expand your creativity in most cases. Often I take just one lens. Yup.
Composition is what matters most. How do you learn composition? Dig, study and shoot. Step outside your norms and make mistakes. Study composition in painting for landscapes and portraiture, study composition in flower arranging for wildflowers, etc. Take risks, try stuff. Etc. If an image "speaks to you" figure out why and how it was taken.
Learn to see light. Seriously. Many photographers simply don't see. Do you know your camera sees only 50% or so of the light of your eyes, meaning short tonal range? You can expose for the shadows or highlights, or take HDR's to capture the whole range in the scene. Understand that subtle differences in light will be amplified in your image.
Study Photography through Pre-Visualization. You can learn a lot by relaxing and thinking about light and composition for any subject. Forget the camera, use your imagination to identify what you seek in light, shadow, form, and organization of those forms. For animal photography, what behaviors do you seek? For landscapes, what lighting, what forms and lines, placement of objects, and so on? If you do pre-visualization exercises you will recognize an opportunity much better when it presents itself.

Opportunities Must be Recognized

This short list is only the beginning really, but it does cover the high spots. Each of the 5 points is a book in itself. My photo $150 one-on-one workshops get at these points (and others).

Ansel Adams said that getting 5 good photos a year was a good average, any more was a very good year. That is the confession of a master who understood the points above (and more).

Now is a good time to study. The challenge of working in the subtle tones of winter forces your hand as a photographer. Finding compositions in this context is always challenging, but you must believe there is a photo. Be thoughtful, make mistakes, learn. Greet the 2012 season with a new creative approach.

12/11/11 December Overview

2011-12-11T10:17:00.001-08:00

December has to be one of the biggest missed opportunities for photographers and elk watchers. This is the end of the rut, but there are big bulls around in all-bull herds and in late rut herds.

The picture below was taken this morning. It is always nice to get one of the big boys around water. In this case he was crossing one of the many creeks in Boxley Valley. This was taken shortly after he was aroused from bedding right next to Highway 43. The "black" patch on his back is from the ice that broke away from his hide -- it is surrounded by white frost. I like the reflection in delicately foggy water.

There are great pictures to be had. I have not been posting maps because there is also an elk hunt underway, or at least there was. I don't want to be a guide for the hunt.

This morning there were two herds on the valley. One by the Ponca Access, and a second down by the 43/21 intersection. Both are nice-sized herds.

The ends of the day remain the best time for elk photos. Other times you may see elk in this cold weather, but the light is flat and the herds are likely to be bedded down rather than moving. This morning I saw a creek crossing and a road crossing. There were only 3 other vehicles watching the elk -- a lot for December. Come on down and you will probably have the place to yourself.

Late Rut/Post Rut Wall-Hanger -- Taken 12/11/11

12/3/11 The Beast Returns in the South Valley

2011-12-03T13:54:00.001-08:00

This morning I was pleasantly surprised to see the Boxley Beast with a big harem down by the Buffalo River in the south end.

In other areas of the valley viewing is much the same. Two bulls are still rutting. There are all bull herds by the intersection of Highway 43 and 21.

True to history, this morning I had the valley to myself. I got a picture of elk in the river, a nice close up or two of the Boxley Beast along the woods. Great opportunities and nobody is taking advantage of them.

This weekend will be cold and perhaps icy weather will make driving difficult, but if the trees ice, the photography can be amazing. Elk will love the icy weather.

Today's herd map is below:

12/1/11 Elk Viewing Good, Weekend Ahead

2011-12-02T12:11:00.001-08:00

This is just about ideal weather for all day elk viewing. There is no question that mornings and evenings remain the best time for viewing, but the herds are less likely to run away the first time sun hits the fields.

Frost Blossoms Now Occur on Cold Mornings
They are Great Abstract Subjects

December 1 there were 3 herds of some size in the valley, with a tiny one mid valley.

The first Ponca field has been pretty good for few days now. The herd there is young animals, many of them yearlings. You can observe they are a bit small, and they can be very playful. These elk will spring around like baby goats. The small bull with them twirls fighting imaginary foes.

At the intersection of highway 43 and 21 there are two herds. One is all bulls, the second is a mixed herd that is another tail end of the rut herd.

So far as I can tell, there are still two bulls running cows in Boxley Valley. The rut is really winding down, but some breeding is still going on.

Remember to check Lost Valley when you visit. December has traditionally be the hot month for elk in Lost Valley. I have no idea why.

11/29/11 Elk Viewing Remains Good

2011-11-30T05:13:00.001-08:00

Elk viewing remains very good as we near the end of the 2011 rut. On the 29th there were 3 herds in Boxley Valley. The largest, nearly 50 animals were down by Moore Creek in the south end. We watched the herd move from its grazing area to the bedding area across 43.

Down by the Ponca Access at the north end a herd composed mostly of yearlings played in the field closest to the access. They were springing around like baby goats for a while. The young bull in the group was fighting an imaginary opponent now and then. Great stuff.

The third herd was in the middle of the valley back near the cane line, too far to see much unless you had high-powered lenses of binoculars.

Frost, Dead Leaves, Grass, Rocks & Shadows
Explore These Textures in Black and White

At the mill pond we saw an otter churn the water around a fish, creating a bubbly wake at least 4 feet in diameter. He swam away continuing his hunt.

Two trumpeter swans were in the pond as well.

This is the season when elk viewing is outstanding but there seem to be few takers. The cold has extended the viewing periods now. Leaf-off makes spotting elk much easier. There are new photo opportunities with frost blossoms and frozen puddles. Late fall is also the geology season.

Nature is now gray, brown with patches of green and steel blue. I recommend spending time working in this environment. Shapes and patterns now trump colors in most compositions. My own preference is to capture pattern in my photos. My eye goes to shapes and lines animated by shadows. If you spend some time examining these opportunities it will strengthen your compositions with all subjects.

11/24/11 Thanksgiving Weekend Viewing

2011-11-24T06:25:00.001-08:00

Late Season Bull Elk Surveys Cows in Mid-Valley

Happy Thanksgiving. Weather has turned cool, perhaps the dominant pattern now for the season. Elk viewing will be good in these cold months. I am making fewer trips to Boxley Valley, but I will update this blog a few times a week. Visits to Boxley Valley will be successful on most days now because of the cooler weather. Elk love this weather.

Visitors should follow these guidelines for late fall viewing:

Be sure to check all of Boxley Valley from Ponca to the South Trailhead to the Upper Wilderness with each visit. There are many different elk herds in and around the valley on back fields, they will move in and out of viewing areas.
While all day elk viewing is more likely now, morning and evening remain the best chance to see elk up close. Seeing big bull elk up close is still often best at daybreak.
Do not assume because you saw elk in a location last week, or last year, that you will see them in the same location today. This almost never works.
ALWAYS check Lost Valley for a herd. The fields along the entrance road to Lost Valley are outstanding viewing locations when elk are there. From now until the end of the year is when Lost Valley elk viewing is most likely. Photographers will not want to miss that opportunity.
If you see cattle in a field, the likelihood of seeing elk in the same field is just about zero.
There are 4 zones (see map) now with active elk herds as follows:
1. Ponca Zone -- There are a few fields near the Ponca Access that elk rotate through.
2. Mid-Valley -- North of the Mill Pond, south of Lost Valley.
3. 43/21 Zone -- The all-bull herds seems to favor these fields, often by the mill pond.
4. South End Zone -- Around Smith Creek & the Upper Wilderness Trailhead.
Don't waste your time with the elk viewing pullout, it is lousy, a 0% viewing area.

The mix of herds now includes an all-bull herd at 43/21, rutting bulls and herds in late rut, and the first small post rut all-cow herds. This is absolutely the best time to get pictures of bull elk in groups and will remain so until around April 1.

See new map with 4 zones below:

11/18/11 3 Herds Today, Weekend Outlook Good

2011-11-18T12:53:00.001-08:00

Hot, Steamy Love

Two rutting herds this morning and one all bull herd in Boxley Valley.

Today a herd showed up in the Ponca field near the launch. This rutting herd, and a second near the mid-valley, are working a set of fields that include Lost Valley. Percentages favor one of these herds showing up in Lost Valley as they move between fields.

Cool weather means steamy breath shots, always dramatic, and outstanding if you get a bull elk bugling. As long as there are rutting herds, there are bugling bulls. These shots are in play for sure.

I would still check the entire Boxley Valley with any visit. There have not been any herds in the deep south end recently, but I am sure there are two down there in the back fields somewhere. One of these herds was headed by Prince, the magnificent 8x8 bull. Pictures of him are always worthwhile.

The weather will be warming some, but there should be cloud cover as well. These offset one another to some extent. I believe the best shots will be around daybreak. Get up and your chances of seeing the elk up close are very good.

11/17/11 Cold Weather = Great Elk Viewing

2011-11-17T08:42:00.001-08:00

Lost Valley Bull Elk and Harem
in front of Clark Homestead 2009

This morning there were 4 herds in Boxley Valley. All the herds were located between the entrance to Lost Valley and the intersection of highways 43 & 21.

In the field about a half mile south of the Lost Valley entrance there were two herds with rutting bulls. In spite of the cold, viewing was over shortly after the sun hit the fields. There was fairly frequent bugling for a while when the herds moved to the bedding areas.

Down by the 43/21 intersection there was a fairly large herd of elk, as well as the all bull herd that has been frequenting the area now for over a week.

If you get to these areas at daybreak, the elk are often pretty close to the fences bordering Highway 43, often with animals between the fence and the road.

The weekend weather forecast calls for rainyish weather. That means cloud cover, a bit of rain, and probably extended elk viewing, especially for Sunday. I will be updating this blog tomorrow, perhaps with more insight about the weekend.

Important Note: The middle valley herd location are now ideal for a herd to show up in Lost Valley. One herd is not a half mile from Lost Valley on the same side of 43. Be sure to check Lost Valley when you visit -- elk photo shoots in Lost Valley are memorable and a bit rare.

11/13/11 Elk Herd Location Report

2011-11-13T08:23:00.001-08:00

This morning was quite different than yesterday. If I had to guess the difference was about pressure from deer hunters and the transition from cloudy day to a sunny warm day today.

We have had pretty high winds now for a couple of days and that translates to dynamic weather. One of the attractions of nature is that it is more a verb and not a noun. Our language would have us freeze the world in tidy categories when little is tidy. Reality is "wiggly" and not so predictable as we might prefer. So it is with elk movements, much as I understand them, there is much that remains unpredictable.

The bull herd down by the intersection of 43 and 21 has split into two groups, one further north around the edge of the mill pond, and a second group south of Moore Creek. These are still the "early all-bull herd", the later all-bull herd will contain the biggest bulls who are still involved in the late rut. Today, these were the only elk to see in the valley. Expect the really big bulls to join them rut slowly ends over the next month.

There are still at least 4 herds in late rut that will appear on and off. These range from the Ponca fields all the way to the south trail head and could appear any time. Yesterday there were 3, today none, this evening could be 2 or 3. Hunting pressure today is evident, and it drives much of the movement.

Today's map:

11/12/11 Bull Fight Today, Herds Return on Cool Weather

2011-11-12T18:29:00.001-08:00

Real bull elk fight today in mid-valley. Cool overcast weather provided outstanding viewing.

A fairly large bull elk herd was in the field by the intersection of 43 and 21. Right on time, this is the beginning of the transition to the post-rut period. Many of these bulls are satellites that have detached from the herds as fewer cow elk are estrous. Antler fans get a decent opportunity to get 8-10 bull elk in one group.

We were treated to 3 herds in the mid-valley. Two herds were close together and that led to a bull fight between the herd bulls. Across 43 behind us another herd showed up and there was actually bugling across the road. A lot of bugling in this area this morning.

The take away point from today is that the rut is still on and quality elk viewing is far from over. There were 3 herds, and 3 rutting bulls in a pretty compact area. I am absolutely certain there is at least 1 more rutting herd in the south end, but currently it is rotated to the back fields.

Be very sure to check out the Lost Valley fields if you visit. The herd that was west of 43 this morning could end up there Sunday -- it is clearly setup based on this morning's herd locations.

The updated map is below:

11/10/11 Elk Herd Locations & Full Moon Slump

2011-11-10T10:46:00.001-08:00

Pickin's were slim this morning, however, if you got out at daybreak the all bull herd down by the 43/21 intersection was close to the road.

We are on a full moon now. Often elk seem to feed at night under these conditions. It is interesting to visit the valley at night and see if you can spot the elk. Around here full moon light can be pretty bright. Often this impacts elk viewing.

The Buffalo National River is running pretty hard for any of you interested in floating. Check http://buffaloriverchamber.com for information on river levels and outfitters.

11/9/11 Elk Herd Location Map

2011-11-09T14:05:00.000-08:00

Cool weather had the elk back in Boxley Valley this morning. Typical of a November day I had the place to myself. Elk viewing was very good.

The herd in the first Ponca field was quite large. They were not only in the field, they were in the woods bordering the field. I would estimate the group at nearly 40 animals. The herd bull is still in rut. This is the same herd that has been working the fields around the Ponca Access now for a week or so on and off.

The first all-bull herds are forming. This morning the bull herd was down by the intersection of 43 and 21. I am marking these all bull herds with a capital b following the date like this "11/9B" as distinct from just regular dates for regular herds. Read yesterday's post to better understand the late rut transition to sex-based herds.

Looks like the elk viewing weather will be pretty good through the weekend. I will check and report on the elk herds tomorrow and again on Saturday AM.

The Buffalo National River is running pretty good now after heavier-than-predicted rains last night. Check out floating possibilities and river levels at the Buffalo River Chamber of Commerce website. This website has everything you need to know about current river levels with real time USGS gauges for the entire river, along with free printable topo maps, and a links to floating outfitters.

Start with Ponca, other gauges are mid page on the same page. Here's the link. This is a great opportunity to do a fall float. Fall color is good in many places. Some outfitters float year round.

11/8/11 Late Season Elk Viewing -- Frequently Asked Questions

2011-11-08T10:42:00.000-08:00

A Back Cover of Arkansas Wildlife Mag
Taken on March 21 near Ponca

Rough storms are keeping me out of Boxley Valley today. Elk like this weather, but I don't, especially with my camera in tow. I thought it was a perfect opportunity to talk about late fall and winter elk viewing.

It is time to look at where we are at in the 2011 Arkansas Elk Rut. The diagram below says it all. This does pretty much come down to a bell shaped curve like so many other things. I would place the peak of the rut at around the second or third week in October. The rut heads slowly downhill after that.

Yes, this is an oversimplification. For example, some of the best bull fight action happens early on. The big guys are establishing their pecking order. After that, there is more breeding and roughly it peaks as shown below. There will be early rutting herds, and late rutting herds. Nothing in nature is that tidy. Still the point of this post is to help my readers get clear on elk viewing opportunities and how the post rut period unfolds. Great elk viewing and photography is far from over.

Frequently Asked Questions About Late Season Elk Viewing:

Q: Is the rut still going on?
A: You bet it is. It will continue until the cows are all successfully bred. The curve is really about breeding. Mating has been observed in early September and in January, but that is very rare.

Q: Is it still possible to see a real bull fight? Yes, but it is less likely than earlier in the rut. I photographed real bull fight November 9th one year. I have heard and seen them later. Sparring continues until around April 1.

Q: How much longer can I view elk in Boxley Valley?
A: Actually elk viewing is good now, and it will improve as the weather gets cooler. Elk like cold weather, and they will often stay out in fields all day long in late fall and winter, but mornings and evenings are your best bet.

Q: The curve shows the rut slowing down and then ending in December, but you say elk viewing is good all winter. What's up with that?
A: Elk viewing is not the same as viewing the elk rut. There will still be about the same number of elk to see, it will just be different. You may see a herd of huge bull elk for example.

Q: How is elk viewing different after the rut?
A: There are plenty of elk to see, but things change. As the rut tails off, the elk herds slowly split up by sex. Cow elk and their calves form cow-only herds. Bull elk and their peers form bull-only herds. This is a gradual transition and it is pretty much complete by mid-December.

Q: What about elk watching and photography after the rut?
A: Many of my best photos are from this post-rut period, including cover shots and even the state elk brochure. Why? Big bull herds offer exceptional viewing and photo opportunities. Elk slow down some and seem less skittish. I took the cover photo for the state elk brochure December 6.

Q: What about bugling?
A: It tapers off with the slow decline of the rut. I have photographed bugling in December, but clearly it slowly declines.

Q: Anything else?
A: Post rut you may have the place to yourself. Crowds of viewers are smaller, ironically when the viewing is better in many ways.

11/6/11 4 Herds Yesterday -- Today 1

2011-11-06T12:17:00.000-08:00

The big weather change has the elk moving around again quite a bit. I would not be surprised to see a few herds out tonight, but there was only 1 this morning down by the intersection of of 43 & 21.

Totally cloudy today. If more come out they will come out earlier than usual. Movement all day long is possible. It will be interesting to see what happens tomorrow.

Bald eagles are around now a couple of weeks early.

Today's map is below. We have 4 herds active in 3 zones of the valley. Seems like they are coming and going a lot these days. Remember to check the whole valley. Where they were yesterday is no guarantee they will be there today. Things are pretty dynamic.

11/5/11 4 Herds in Boxley Valley Now -- Location Map

2011-11-05T10:48:00.000-07:00

4 elk herds in the valley this morning.

A surprise arrival was the large herd just south of the Ponca Access this morning. A herd was behind the mill pond. Two more herds were on the opposite sides of 21 down by the Upper Wilderness Trail Head. The cold weather has definitely changed things. Overcast skies this morning extended elk viewing until after 9AM.

The south end remains the best spot for elk bugling. Prince is in the south end.

Good elk viewing has returned. Today's map is below.

11/4/11 Prince Classic Pose

2011-11-05T05:21:00.000-07:00

The Best Arkansas Bull Elk Ever -- The Prince of Boxley Valley

11/4/11 Prince in Rut

2011-11-04T19:44:00.000-07:00

Prince Rutting 11/4/11 Copyright Michael Dougherty 2011

11/4/11 4 Herds Continue 2011 Rut in Boxley Valley

2011-11-04T08:51:00.000-07:00

The Prince of Boxley Valley 11/4/11

Cold weather has 4 elk herds returning to Boxley Valley in the 2011 rut. Action is loaded in the south end from the observation pullout to the fields in the South end of Boxley Valley around Smith Creek. There was quite a bit of bugling this morning complete with steamy breaths. Definitely the action that any serious photographer or wildlife watcher would want to witness.

If you are thinking that elk viewing is over for 2011, you would be dead wrong. If past experience is any guide, the best is still ahead. We have the remnants of good fall color, bald eagles here and there, and the last third of the elk rut.

Great weekend weather for elk viewing is ahead. Expect the elk to be close to the morning viewing locations throughout the weekend.

This morning's herd location map is below:

11/3/11 A Day Off

2011-11-03T10:20:00.000-07:00

Strong winds and rain this morning made today a perfect day off from the map and blog. This is classic November weather -- time to hole up.

I am certain that the elk love this weather. Years of watching them have proven to me that elk consider this weather just about the best of any weather. They love cold, rainy weather.

Friday is predicted to be clear weather, followed by partly cloudy on Saturday. Sunday has a 30% chance of rain. The highs each day are 58, 63 and 67 through Sunday. This will be ideal viewing and photography weather.

If you are coming up tonight, I would be sure to check out the fields around Smith Creek in the south end of Boxley Valley. That herd is ranging around, but it does pop up for easy viewing most days. It should be rotating into the field just north of Smith Creek any time now.

Look for an updated map tomorrow. There is a very long way to go in this prime elk viewing season, I will be back on top of it tomorrow. But today, I am kicking back a bit.

11/2/11 Herd Location Map

2011-11-02T08:04:00.000-07:00

This morning the only large herd was at the south end of Boxley Valley. This herd has been moving around a lot and it is reasonable to expect they might move north during the day. I have heard reports of them moving into the field just north of Smith Creek in the evening.

Mid week we will have another significant weather shift toward much cooler weather, this will no doubt extend elk viewing hours, and it could trigger the movement of herds back into the valley. By next weekend, the elk viewing pattern will be very different. My guess is that it will improve steadily.

Bald eagles are showing up now. Last evening I saw a number of them in one group -- probably just migrating through. Apparently unnaturally cold weather in the north has moved up the date of the annual southward migration. Seeing bald eagles is never common, but after the fall migration it is more common. We are now entering the bird migratory season.

11/1/11 Elk Herd Map & A Look Ahead

2011-11-01T07:12:00.000-07:00

This morning the elk herd that has been hanging out in the first Ponca field was there again. They were up pretty close to the road, possibly preparing to cross. The Ponca field is about the best field for viewing for the last few days.

A second herd was behind the Mill Pond, and a third down at the south end near Smith Creek.

November is a great month to view elk. Later this week we head back into cooler weather. This should translate into more herds coming into Boxley Valley to graze, and longer viewing times.

Bald eagles seem to be arriving early this year. The normal season is from Thanksgiving until Valentine's Day. Cold weather in the north seems to be pushing them down. The best place to see bald eagles in Boxley Valley are around the mill pond and in the middle valley area, but they do fly all along the river.

10/31/11 Map -- First Ponca Field is Good Now

2011-10-31T13:53:00.000-07:00

We close out the October map today.

There is one elk herd at the north end of the valley in the very first field south of the Ponca access. I believe checking the south end field near Smith Creek is a good bet any day. Remember we are entering the period when traditionally the fields along the entrance road to Lost Valley could hold elk. They are worth checking because if they are there, the viewing and photography are outstanding.

10/31/11 Late Fall in the Ozarks

2011-10-31T11:58:00.000-07:00

Fall Color at Buffalo River Canyon

Sunrise along the top bench, Buffalo River Canyon. Surely there is no more perfect place in the Ozarks. Fall color is where you find it, and when you find it.

This morning was a short break from the elk. I will be backing off a bit during November. During September and October I made about 70 visits to the Boxley Valley chasing elk and driving about 2700 miles.

Elk viewing will be just great until the end of March. The rut is still going on but now we are slowly winding down. Late this month, we will enter the third estrous, and the pace of the rut will slow. About that time, the blend between the rut and post rut will be evident. Slowly the elk herd will split along gender lines. It is at this time that big bull elk fans can get some of the most dramatic pictures of the year. 100% bull elk herds will roam primarily the south half of Boxley Valley. If antlers are your passion, this period until March is prime time.

The Buffalo River Photo Experience

Rutting bulls will be running cows into December, but some will begin the formation of these all-bull herds. The show is far from done. The best bull fight I ever photographed was November 9th. My first river crossing was shot December 6 in 2006.

Fall color is very good now and at peak. I decided to grab some photos this morning with a new friend. After our shoot, he went down to Ponca and got his first elk river crossing. As he put it, "I got my wall hanger". I could not be more pleased. The point of all this writing and the maps is to help all of you get those "wall hangers". Nothing pleases me more. I get my share, I want you to get yours.

If you plan to visit the valley this evening to see elk, the herd in the first Ponca field is still hanging around and putting on a good show (the north end of the valley just out of Ponca). Don't forget those fall color landscapes, we are one storm away from losing the leaves. The elk show will continue for 3 months. In some ways, it only gets better from November the end of the year and beyond.

10/30/11 Ponca Field, Smith Creek Field -- Elk At Both Ends

2011-10-30T09:15:00.000-07:00

Elk are at the opposite ends of Boxley Valley now. There is a herd in the very first Ponca field, and a second at the south end in the field north of Smith Creek.

Absolutely wonderful weather and peak fall color.

Bald eagles have started arriving a few weeks early due to cold blast in the north. The customary eagle viewing season is from Thanksgiving until Valentine's Day. A good place to see the eagles when they arrive is the Mill Pond area.

Thanks to those who came to my workshops and visited us in the annual Color Fest.

10/28/11 Elk Herd Report & Color Fest Friday and Saturday

2011-10-28T07:50:00.000-07:00

Elk have responded to the weather change as I expected. The herd that is/was in the very first Ponca field put on a good show this morning to a nice crowd. This herd will probably move across the street today to get away from cattle in the adjoining fields.

There are a couple of other herds in the valley, but they were a bit slow getting out today. One is behind the mill pond, and another is in the field north of Smith Creek. The latter one was bedded down in a big depression in the field.

I am doing free photo workshops today and tomorrow at 2PM at the Color Fest. This will focus on elk by the season with some attention to conditions and photographic challenges.

10/27/11 Rain & Cold Cause Elk Return

2011-10-27T13:00:00.000-07:00

Great news. The return of cold (and wet) weather has stimulated the elk herds to return to a more normal pattern. This weekend should be good elk viewing. Fall color has also hit another gear and is at absolute peak now.

I will be doing my free photography workshops at the elk center regardless of weather conditions, or if the Color Fest is called off because of weather. Color Fest will be going on unless the weather makes an unexpected turn for the worst.

Elk map below.

10/27/11 Weather Change, Delayed Map Today

2011-10-27T06:08:00.000-07:00

Since it is Thursday and we are in the grip of a rain storm that could last most of the day, I am delaying my entry to later today. I will be checking on the elk herds later this afternoon.

It is much colder today and that bodes well for elk movements back to the fields of Boxley Valley. The question is 1) will there be thunderstorms sufficiently violent to keep the elk under cover, and 2) how long will it take them to move back to the fields. My guess is 1) NO, and 2) not long at all, tonight or tomorrow morning.

The elk weather forecast could not be better. The highest daily temperature going forward through the weekend is 61. Today the predicted high is 49 and the radar looks like rain all day.

This weekend is perfect elk weather, with rain ending today and transitioning to clear, cool weather all weekend. All this, and peak fall color too.

Remember the Color Fest starts tomorrow. I will be doing a free photography workshop both days at 2:00PM.

10/26/11 No Elk Herds This Morning

2011-10-26T08:27:00.000-07:00

There are days like this. My feeling is that the elk herds will be back in Boxley Valley by the end of the week as the weather cools. This is the second day with not much going on in Boxley Valley. My best guess is that when the elk do reappear, they will be from the Lost Valley entrance road and points south. I will keep you posted. Be sure to check the whole valley when you visit. The elk herds will re-appear very suddenly. We are still in the 2011 rut.

Fall color is great now, much better than in the last few years. If you are planning to do a color tour, this weekend will be the first great fall color touring weekend. Don't forget the Color Fest in Ponca Friday and Saturday.

2011 Color Fest Friday and Saturday at the Elk Education Center -- Free Photo Workshops

2011-10-25T13:22:00.000-07:00

No visit to the Boxley Valley in Ponca area is complete without visiting the award-winning Ponca elk education Center. The center features displays and hands-on demonstrations of various aspects of wildlife in the Buffalo River region. It has a very complete gift shop that includes nature guides, free posters, and publications from the AGFC. Staff at the Center provide information about area elk and wildlife viewing opportunities. Call 870-861-2432 for information and the latest information on elk and wildlife watching opportunities.

Even Elk Visit the Education Center for Guidance

Each October Ponca Elk Education Center holds its annual Color Fest scheduled to coincide with peak fall color. This year the Color Fest will be held on October 28 and 29th from 10 AM to 4:30 PM each day. There will be live demonstrations by area artists as well as a small art fair. I will be there with my wife Mandy selling photography, Christmas cards, and postcards.

Each day at 2PM I will be conducting a free photography workshop in the downstairs conference room at the center. This informal workshop focuses on elk photography and other photographic opportunities in the Boxley Valley area. Plenty of time is provided for questions and answers after the workshop -- bring your questions. I look forward to meeting you and talking about photography and elk in our area. This year I will show many different photos and discuss what I had to do to get them. I will also discuss wildlife photo composition. Call 870-861-2432 to reserve your spot. If there are enough attendees, I will schedule a second session following the first.

Ponca elk education Center is located just north of the intersection of highways 43 and 74 in Ponca. There is ample parking, picnic tables and a pavilion, and restrooms inside the facility. The Elk Education Center is a short drive from the primary wildlife viewing areas in Boxley Valley.

10/25/11 Elk & Fall Color Report

2011-10-25T07:49:00.000-07:00

Not much to report today on the elk front. There is a small herd behind the Mill Pond, and just stragglers elsewhere. This limited viewing will not last with significant weather changes just ahead.

Cattle are now grazing again in the Ponca fields. That is the kiss of death for elk grazing, it is about 95% certain you will never see elk and cattle in the same field for long, if at all.

If there is anything good in this it is the look ahead. Today is the last day of relatively warm weather before temperatures head down to seasonal normal temperatures, and more cloudy weather. If elk hate anything, it is hot sunlight and warm temperatures. Wednesday has a 50% chance of precipitation, and there is a chance through Friday. This is a significant pattern change, and the elk will react to it.

With the exception of the fields with current grazing cattle, Boxley Valley from the Lost Valley entrance to the south trail head will be the place to expect to see elk. What this means is that visitors should drive the whole valley before settling on a viewing choice.

It has been interesting this year to see how seldom the fields around the highway 43/21 intersection have had an elk herd in them. Common sense tells me at least one elk herd will show up in these fields because for all intents and purposes they have not been grazed. They are all supposedly planted as a food plot.

With the weather change and cool temperatures, I expect good if not great elk viewing by the weekend. There are a few herds around, but they are just not in the valley for now. We shall see.

Fall Color
Fall color is very good now if not at peak. Photographers and sightseers will enjoy the fall beauty that our national treasure has to offer. Photographers will want to get the fall color pictures while they are still possible. Think about river landscapes and pool reflections. Not enough photographers look at river reflections for fall color inspiration.

New Elk Video Posted on Bull Fights vs. Sparring

2011-10-24T18:50:00.000-07:00

I thought it would be useful to put together a slide show to show the difference between bull elk fighting and bull elk sparring. I get asked this question all the time.

Very few people get the chance to see a real bull elk fight even though they happen often early in the rut. When people tell me that they have seen a fight I assume it is sparring. Sparring is fun to watch, but nothing is on the line with sparring bulls, it is almost something they do to combat boredom.

Here is the video. I realize the sound could be better:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExKzToANycE

If somehow you missed it, the following is a video of a true bull fight in Boxley Valley:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4Pb_s1SG1o

10/24/11 Elk Herd Report & Map

2011-10-24T07:18:00.000-07:00

Heavy fog again this morning, but one herd did show up in the Ponca fields. This looked to me like two herds had merged and a newly-deposed herd bull was looking on as his herd left the field. With the fog it was hard to make sense of the specific bulls and dynamics.

Viewing was done at 8AM. There was a fair amount of bugling. Persons arriving at 8:30AM might have heard some bugling, but the elk were largely gone.

The October 24 herd map is below.

10/23/11 Morning Fog, Ugh

2011-10-23T08:27:00.000-07:00

This morning Boxley Valley was socked in with fog, presumably from a short rain this morning. I did not see a herd of elk this morning in the valley anywhere. I did see a lot of stragglers, enough to satisfy those who were visiting. If I had to guess the herd that has been in the Ponca fields was behind the fence line between the fence and the river. On the other end of the valley in the south field near Smith Creek, elk were also moving along the river and they seemed to be there. Neither situation did elk watchers much good. These days happen. The fog made it worse.

Fall color is very good now and still heading toward peak. There are still plenty of green trees.

This evening could be good. It is anyone's guess. This morning's viewing does not offer much of an idea about what tonight's viewing might be.

10/22/11 Elk Herd Positions -- Death on 43

2011-10-22T09:45:00.000-07:00

Sadly, this morning a calf elk was killed by a motorist. Speed kills. My guess is that it was not a tourist, but rather someone in a hurry to get somewhere. During the elk rut, any speed over 45MPH is madness. When elk are visible along the road, 20MPH is more like it. That's two elk this year, and two that could have probably been avoided with a little restraint.

This morning, as predicted, there were more herds evident with the opening of muzzle loader season. The 3 elk herds were located in the Ponca fields (scene of the traffic death), in the middle valley field, and another in the north corner of the field north of Smith Creek in the south end.

Lots of people out viewing and enjoying the show. Middle valley viewers were cautioned by police to be more careful. That is a dangerous viewing area with blind curves and dips in the road.

The major viewing was over by 8:30AM, although stragglers remained much later. The hunting pressure for whitetails clearly moved more of the elk herd into the valley.

Remember to drive carefully. If you see elk on the side of the road they may bolt in front of you. Go very slowly if they are on the roadsides.

10/21/11 Elk Herd Report -- Weekend Outlook & More

2011-10-21T09:47:00.000-07:00

This morning was a bit frustrating because only one elk herd showed up, the one in the mid valley area. The bull running that herd is Hacksaw, the same bull I photographed crossing the Buffalo the first week in September. He was the first bull I saw start the 2011 Arkansas elk rut. I heard him fight about a minute this morning behind the cane line. The unmistakable clatter of bull crashing antlers cannot be faked.

This morning the herd run by Pretty Boy was not in the Ponca fields (like yesterday), and Hercules was not in the field north of Smith Creek. In both these cases, we the herds are moving around a lot in a complex of fields.

Lost Valley Bull in front of Clark Homestead

Here is how you should interpret the map below. Looking at the date patterns, you can see where the elk frequent. Currently, in the case of the herds at the opposite ends of the valley, there are "complexes" of fields around the "viewing fields" that the elk move in and out of depending on the day. So, if you see a bunch of dates that are not consecutive, but are close to one another, you know that a herd is working the complex in question. Currently there are two herds showing this behavior, one in a north complex, the one I call the Ponca fields, and a second, working a south complex, the one I call the Smith Creek fields.

The middle valley herd has been in the same field now for 4 days. There is a similar field complex there, but they seem content to graze in the same viewing field for now.

A Look Ahead
Today begins muzzle loader season. The significance of this is that the hunters will reduce the desirability of many fields due to hunting pressure. This means that the 3 field complexes currently in use will have fewer fields in each complex because the elk avoid the hunters. To get to the bottom line, expect the elk to move into the "viewing fields" more often because there is no hunting pressure in Boxley Valley.

This could also cause a shift of the areas currently in use by the elk. It is quite possible for example that the herd(s) that have been using the south end fields will move to the fields near the intersection of highways 43 and 21.

Elk Herd Crossing Lost Valley Entrance Road in 2009

Each year about this time, the fields along the entrance road to Lost Valley and in Steel Creek (to a much lesser extent) come into play. From now on, it would be my recommendation for all elk watchers and photographers to check the Lost Valley fields as well as the entire valley end to end with each visit. Elk viewing in both these places is exceptional when it happens. Lost Valley is a great place to get elk pictures. It is compact and the old Clark homestead is a great backdrop.

This weekend should be great. We are near peak fall color and the elk are still in rut. We are perhaps now in the last third of the peak period, but elk viewing and photography will be good for at least another month.

10/20/11 Video of the Beast and Hercules in October Frost

2011-10-20T15:02:00.000-07:00

I mentioned in my previous post that the Boxley Beast had been deposed by Hercules in a fight sometime yesterday or very early today. Dominance and succession gets complex as we move later into the season.

What happens is that long term herd bulls get tired out from weeks of patrolling the herd boundaries, fighting off the competition and breeding. The Beast has had a 7 week run and now has lost his standing as herd bull. I believe this will be temporary, but it is hard to say. I have seen big bulls simply walk away from their herds late in the rut, presumably from exhaustion.

Note the great morning frost we are now having. The tall grass in the south field near Smith Creek looks like clouds of snow in heavy frost. It is beautiful now and we have fall color coming on as a nice kicker.

10/20/11 Boxley Beast Deposed, 3 Herds in Valley Now

2011-10-20T08:59:00.000-07:00

Two stories top today's news. First, the elk are back now in the cold weather setting up an excellent weekend for viewing. Second, the Boxley Beast apparently lost a fight in the last day and has been replaced as a herd bull (for now).

This morning there were three herds in the valley, one in the Ponca fields north of the observation pullout, a second in the mid-valley, and a third has returned to the field north of Smith Creek in the south end. There are stragglers elsewhere.

The south end herd has been dominated by the Boxley Beast up until today. This has been a nearly 7 week reign. He has been replaced by a fresh bull for now. I would rate this south field #1 again for elk viewing, and it is without a doubt the best for bugling. Lots of bugling down there this morning, little elsewhere in the valley.

It is quite possible that after the Beast licks his wounds, there will be another fight. The cumulative fatigue that dominant herd bulls experience during the rut leads to these changes in herd bulls. The question is whether this is permanent, or if when rested, the Beast will battle again. It is my feeling he will rest and attempt to take his herd back. I expect that fight over the next few days. My guess is that he will win his herd back when rested.

The weekend is setting up for great elk viewing. Cold temps are extending the viewing on both ends of the day. This morning two of the herds were still in the fields when I left the valley at 9:30. My advice is still to get to the valley at daybreak, and check the whole valley before settling on the viewing you prefer. My guess is that you will find the south end field most interesting, but elk are nothing if not unpredictable.

10/19/11 Herd Location Map

2011-10-19T06:52:00.000-07:00

This morning looked like moving day to me. Most all the elk were gone by 8AM. Many seemed to be on teh move to other locations. Plenty of stragglers around.

A small herd has returned to the Ponca fields and appeared to bed down behind them this morning. Otherwise, the herd at mid-valley was out. In the south end field by Smith Creek, I would have to rate them stragglers at this point.

We have experienced quite a weather change. Quite cold this morning and on the edge of frost. In the past, this shift to a colder weather pattern has always changed elk behavior. It should be interesting this week to see where this leads.

Important Benefit Concert Friday Night at Arkansas House in Jasper

2011-10-18T12:24:00.000-07:00

Kids Injured While Playing on Rocks
Could Require Immediate Help

Friday night, October 21st at 7PM, the Arkansas House will host a benefit concert to support continued pay phone service at Steel Creek and Kyles Landing. Maintaining these pay phones has been identified as a priority safety issue by the Buffalo River Chamber of Commerce.

The pay phones were recently defunded by the National Park Service as it has attempted to cope with deep federal funding cuts. The Chamber is working to preserve these essential communication links for visitor safety through other means of financial support.

These pay phones are essential to visitor safety. Both Steel Creek and Kyles Landing are cell phone dead zones. Both are popular destinations for floaters, hikers, horsemen and campers. Without these pay phones, park visitors could not report emergencies to rescue teams in a timely manner because there is no cell service to these areas.

Each year Arkansas House does a benefit concert and designates 50% of the proceeds to a local charity. This year Arkansas House chose this worthy Buffalo River Chamber of Commerce safety initiative.

A Fall Can Lead to Life Threatening
Injuries in the BNR Near Steel Creek

Tickets for the benefit concert are $10 and may be purchased in advance at the Boardwalk Cafe, or on the day of the event. Arkansas House is located just north of the square in Jasper, AR. For more information call them at 870-446-5900. For directions and more information about Arkansas House, visit their website at http://arkansashouse.net.

Please come to the concert and support this important project.

10/18/11 Herd Location Update, Rainy

2011-10-18T07:56:00.000-07:00

Spitting rain and wind coupled with cool weather this morning was the first taste of November weather. Elk love this weather, and they were out in it this morning. We got over a half inch of badly needed rain.

The Boxley Beast continues to work the fields around Smith Creek. This morning he and his harem were south of the creek, I expect them to rotate back into the field north of the creek any day. There is more forage there, and the grass should be growing with the rains.

A second herd continues to lurk behind the mill pond with a couple of satellite bulls hanging around just south of the pond along the cane line.

The third herd is in the mid valley field.

The mystery is the Ponca fields. Pretty Boy and his harem have moved off again after a brief appearance. Since there have been no cattle in those fields for some time, they are a natural grazing target. There is enough grazing there to support 2 herds. My guess it that at least one will be back soon, perhaps by the weekend. Anyone visiting the valley should check these fields routinely.

The look ahead this week is excellent. Cold temperatures should extend viewing times. As we move into deeper into the fall, the fields along the entrance to Lost Valley have come into play. Don't forget to check them when you visit.

With tonight's predicted low 30's temperatures, peak fall color should be right on time next week.

10/17/11 -- Weather Change, Herds Gone for Now

2011-10-17T07:42:00.000-07:00

The only elk to view this morning were the Boxley Beast's herd as he headed them up to the Upper Wilderness. The rest of the valley was empty except for stragglers.

After tonight's predicted thunderstorms, the next few days will be unseasonably cool. This will create a new viewing pattern. I expect to see elk viewing pick up through the week, but tonight is iffy to be sure. Elk seem to know what is going to happen with the weather so I expect them to take cover even though the storms are supposed to hit after sundown.

Tuesday through Thursday should be good viewing because of unseasonably cool temperatures, and cold nights.

Shoot Elk & Fall Color, But Don't Forget Other Subjects

2011-10-16T14:40:00.000-07:00

Fall Butterfly Photography is Great

It is easy to lose sight of every other photographic subject when you have both the elk rut and fall color dominating the photography landscape. If you are planning a photo outing to Buffalo National River there are other photo subjects.

Two you never hear about are fall wildflowers and fall butterfly shooting. The tiny purple asters on the right are a fall wildflower, but one of my favorites. I like to stalk pictures in filtered light and see what happens. Pictures of flowers in filtered light are one of favorite subjects. Add butterflies and it is even more challenging.

Note that the background drops off to blurry color called bokeh, a great creative tool. I took this picture with my trusty 100-400 zoom set for closeups at ISO 2000 underexposed 3 stops using aperture priority. This little skipper cooperated with a visit, as did a sulphur, a painted lady, a monarch, a checkerspot, and a dusky skipper.

It probably took me about 200 shots to get 5 photos worth fussing with. I think this one is the best. Dig around and see what you can find. Butterflies seem to move faster in warm weather, so fall shooting can be very good.

There are no shortage of fall flowers, and there are still plenty of butterfly species to choose from. Add these to your fall list of "things to shoot" and you will always come away with something. Since shooting under the canopy is good at any time of day, this subject complements elk and landscape shooting that are best at the ends of the day.

11/16/11 Pattern Shift -- Elk Herd Locations

2011-10-16T07:58:00.000-07:00

As I predicted, a herd did show up in the Ponca fields this AM. Pretty Boy and his harem returned after a brief stay up the bluff to the west. This morning they put on a nice show. There were also 5 satellite bulls hanging around the edges hoping for a wayward cow to join them.

The herd behind the mill pond continues to be very reliable -- easily the most reliable herd over the last week or so. I do expect them to move into the field adjacent to the south. When they do, there will be much better viewing for this particular herd.

On the south end, the Beast and his harem were out early AM, but gone quite early too, just after 7AM. No doubt we have a nocturnal grazing pattern with this herd. This weeks much cooler weather, beginning Monday night, should make a big difference in the quality of elk viewing there as the week goes on.

I forgot to mention yesterday that I saw a bald eagle flying over the field at the south end. The unmistakable brilliant white head and tail was a treat. It is early for the annual migration, but we do have some eagles that live here all year.

Fall color continues to advance. It is great to have some color show up in elk photos. This is clearly not peak color, but it is the color I prefer. To me fall color is like makeup, it should add dimensionality to a photo but in my compositions it is not really the point of the photo. The point is always the power of the composition and color is only one part of that. The photo is the whole package.

10/15/11 Elk Herd Locations & Looking Ahead

2011-10-15T11:44:00.000-07:00

Despite cooler weather, elk were leaving the fields this morning at 7:30AM. For the last few days we have had brilliant nights under bright moonlight and sometimes this seems to stimulate a strong nocturnal feeding pattern that can shorten the morning viewing. The advice I have given repeatedly to get to the valley at daybreak for morning viewing could not have been more true today. At least at the south end, those coming even at 7:30AM might think the elk were never there.

The Boxley Beast has returned to the south field. Probably he has been working a few fields from there south with his harem. Earlier in the month he disappeared for a couple of days into the upper wilderness. This absence was much the same pattern.

A second herd behind the Mill Pond has been there for a few days. There are also some satellite bulls just south of this herd that are in the 43/21 field along the cane line. Unless you have a long lens or a spotting scope, these animals are a little far away to enjoy.

Mid-valley a good sized herd was out this morning. I expect this herd to be moving north. This is just a hunch based on the movement of cattle grazing nearby. A pretty good crowd enjoyed these animals this morning.

Be sure to check the entire Boxley Valley when you visit. The north fields closest to Ponca, extending from the Ponca Access to the first field south of the observation pullout are all now vacant. My point is that elk respond to these opportunities, and these fields are now primed for a herd or two. I predict one will pop in anytime. There is room for more.

Looking Ahead to Next Week
Monday night cool weather returns, and with it, prime elk viewing will probably return. From Tuesday through next weekend the highs will be in the 60's. That is prime elk viewing weather, it doesn't get better than that. Look for steamy-breathed bugling, and steadily improving fall color. A great time to be in the Buffalo National River region. Peak fall color is just about here. Be here now.

Elk Returning -- 10/14/11 Herd Location Map & Report

2011-10-14T07:49:00.000-07:00

This morning I found the Boxley Beast and his harem in the field just south of Smith Creek. My conversation with visitors from Missouri indicated that he and this harem were just north of Smith Creek last evening. The really good news is that they are rotating back north, presumably in search of more food.

Otherwise, Boxley Valley is largely unchanged. There is a herd behind the mill pond, and straggler elk elsewhere in the mid-valley area. These herds will become more visible because there is simply not enough forage to stay in one place for an extended period of time.

The Ponca fields were vacant this morning. I thought it was possible that the herd would be back. I am certain they are up the hill from those fields and they will return soon.

What about this weekend? My guess is that the viewing will be good, and depending on how the elk move, it might be very good. If you are on the edge of coming, check out my blog entry tomorrow morning for an update. If you are coming, or if you are already here, the viewing action is at the south end of valley from the trail head to about a half-mile north.

10/13/11 Elk Herd Locations & Update

2011-10-13T08:18:00.000-07:00

The elk herd pattern remains about the same. I did hear bugling up on the north end of Boxley Valley near Ponca. I suspect it signals that a herd was on the move back to Ponca fields, but only time will tell.

It has been a few days since we have had a normal elk show in the Boxley Valley. Does this mean the rut is over? Absolutely not, this is just a mid-rut pattern of elk movement out of the valley and it is nothing to be concerned about. It is now a few days that the herds have been away. Past experience would indicate that the elk herds will be back any day now.

These field patterns turn around very fast. The rain of the last two nights coupled with the cooler weather should be more than enough to cause the elk to move. If you will recall, the movement out of the fields was due to unseasonably warm weather -- that warm weather pattern has now changed.

We are now at most only half way through the rut. Things will start to taper off at the end of October, but very good elk viewing continues until the holidays. I filmed a real elk fight November 9th a few years back. Some bull elk will be "running" cows until the first of the year.

Don't be discouraged. This will change any day now and the big show will continue. There is not a chance that the rut is over. I will continue to report on elk viewing every morning.

10/12/11 Elk Herd Locations -- Rain

2011-10-12T07:25:00.000-07:00

Elk viewing remains below normal. Only two herds and they are back from the road and not very large. There is one herd in the mid-valley area, and a second larger herd behind the mill pond. Otherwise, there are not even very many stragglers.

Elk Watchers in the Middle Boxley Valley Area

Today's rain should stimulate some change. I believe the herds have moved out of the fields primarily because of reduced forage. We have had enough rain to stimulate grass growth. Equally important, the rain signals cooler weather for at least a few days, with a prediction for a couple of nights with temperatures dipping into the 40's. That could move more herds back into the valley. Only time will tell.

I will be monitoring elk conditions each day. I expect a turnaround soon because we are significantly below the multi-year norm right now.

A week from Saturday begins muzzle loader season for deer -- often this drives the elk out of the wooded areas back to the valley. We will see if this pattern holds up.

10/11/11 Elk Herd Location Map -- 4AM Report

2011-10-11T03:43:00.000-07:00

I saw only one herd this morning in my survey. Today I had to get out very early, 4AM, due to other demands on my time. I know from many years of elk watching, that super early you will see animals along the roads grazing under the cover of darkness. They will generally be in the same fields after sunrise.

There is a herd in the mid-valley quite early, and there is a second behind the Mill Pond. Stragglers elsewhere. There is still pretty heavy fog in the early morning.

It is not unusual to have a pause like this during the rut. It always amazes me how great viewing can change overnight to slim pickings and vice versa.

I would not rule out seeing elk in the south field by Smith Creek or elsewhere -- they are just not there this morning. They do move around a lot looking for food, perhaps more so this year because of our drought conditions. These conditions would tend to put them along the roads because those areas have low grazing pressure at most times. Under the full moon, often they feed nocturnally so this can reduce viewing opportunities.

10/10/11 No Herds Today (mostly)

2011-10-10T06:42:00.000-07:00

Sometimes the earth swallows up the elk in Boxley Valley, today was one such day. In my travel from Ponca to the Upper Wilderness Trailhead I only saw one herd, and it was moving south of the trailhead along the river into the Upper Buffalo Wilderness.

Otherwise it was only stragglers, the largest group of them were behind the Mill Pond. If you must come down to the valley this evening, I think your best chance to see elk would be around the 43/21 intersection fields. Next would be the field north of Smith Creek. I believe the herd is behind there up in a back field hollow. There were a couple of stragglers in the field this morning. No ground fog, and no elk more or less.

As I predicted, the herd that was in the Ponca field so late in the morning was trying to move across 43 and apparently it did.

If I had to put my finger on what is going on it would be the warm weather, and the fact that this year's drought has impacted the forage. Elk movements have been different this year than in past years.

The good news is that this happened on Monday. The herds will continue to move around so we will probably have some back in the viewing areas by the weekend. They are no doubt nearby. Most of the haying activity should be completed by then. If you were planning to come tonight, I think there will not be very many elk to see. I would wait.

I will continue to keep everyone posted on the status of herds (or no herds) in Boxley Valley.

10/9/11 Elk Viewing Map & Report

2011-10-09T10:35:00.000-07:00

For the second day there has been real heavy ground fog in the morning in the south field by Smith Creek. There were two herds there this morning, but you really had to look hard to see them, and most people would probably not see them.

Until these fog conditions abate, I will have to rate the Ponca field as better for morning viewing. As far as evening viewing goes, I would still favor the south end by Smith Creek. I much prefer the natural look of that field, plus there are more elk there. Bugling is more common on the south end too because there are more satellite bulls there. This fog will not be a problem in the evenings.

This morning, the bull and harem in the Ponca fields were visible until after 10AM. I think the reason is that they were trying to cross the road to get to a back field. For that reason, I think there is an even chance there might not be in the Ponca fields tonight. This kind of movement is normal.

There are elk scattered across the valley, but only 3 herds. I think this warm weather has the herds hanging back in the hollows along the river. My guess would be that with the next cold snap there will be many more elk showing up for the rut.

Updated Elk Herd Locations

Fall Color on the Buffalo National River

2011-10-08T13:18:00.000-07:00

Each day now brings more fall color. Yesterday's elk failure provided a pretty decent river landscape. If you have never stalked fall color along a pooled up river or creek you are missing an opportunity. I think the best compositions are at angles along the flow of the river and not straight on. I like to have a river vanishing point if if it is possible, all other things being equal. The final test comes from inside, the sense that you are witnessing a special moment in nature. That is what inspired me with this photo -- it felt right.

October Sunrise at Big Hollow

10/8/11 Elk Herd Location Map & News

2011-10-08T10:49:00.000-07:00

This morning there were two primary elk viewing herds, one just south of the Ponca Access, and a second bordered by Smith Creek on the south end of Boxley Valley.

There was a lot of bugling at the south end even though today it was socked in by heavy morning fog. Unseasonably warm temperatures cause the elk to leave the fields around 8AM. Current temperatures are about 8 degrees above seasonal normals.

Last night the elk came into the fields at 5PM. In the evening there were a couple of more small herds than we saw in the morning session.

I still rate the south field as the best place to see and hear the elk. The tall grass of the south field is better for photos. There are more satellite bulls around the south field and that stimulates more bugling.

The Ponca field is good, and there is a decent bull there. I learned today that the Bubba Stud is hanging around in this area so there could be a bull fight there as well. Bubba Stud is a ferocious bull so it is worth keeping an eye on his movements. If the past is any indication, only the Boxley Beast can handle the Bubba Stud.

Better Lucky Than Good

2011-10-07T10:38:00.000-07:00

Today I spent a couple of hours waiting for an elk crossing that never happened. I have taken enough pictures of elk in fields to prefer the more difficult shots like crossings and elk in the woods. The result is that often I am skunked much like the angler who forgoes small fish to focus on trophy fish -- getting skunked goes with the territory when you raise your sights.

I did get a couple of landscape pictures, but today's gift happened on the way back hiking up the Buffalo River. Ahead of me about 100 yards off I noticed the big wakes and commotion that I now recognize as river otter feeding around a weed bed. The Buffalo National River has a lot of otter and other marine mammals. When hiking the river one will see them now and then, but it is never common.

Sometimes Otter Slow Down -- Sometimes You Get Lucky

In this case it was 3 juvenile otters that appeared to have just been kicked out of the nest. Otters are not particularly timid, but they move very fast and it is hard to get a picture of them. Often when you get one, they are soaking wet and "shiny". As a dark animal against water reflections, it can be real tough getting the correct exposure. I learned from failing a few times that over-exposing some or a lot is critical to getting decent detail.

Anyway, I did get some shots while standing in the river. I missed most of the shots, but I got a few. It was a joy to watch them feed and play. Here is my "better lucky than good" shot. It is failure like this that keeps me hiking along the Buffalo National River.

10/7/11 Herd Map Update & Report

2011-10-07T10:10:00.000-07:00

The herd locations are pretty much the same as they have been. There is a herd in the Ponca fields, along with stragglers around the edges of it. The Boxley Beast continues to occupy the field near Smith Creek.

Last night a small herd was also located in the field across from the 43/21 intersection. I don't show it on the map because it was not there this morning. I do expect a herd to locate in that field, but there is haying underway and it probably won't happen until the bales are removed.

This promises to be another great weekend for elk viewing. We are in the thick of the rut and elk are moving around a lot.

Last Sundays elk fatality reflects the movement of satellite bulls. Expect to see bulls anywhere when you drive Boxley Valley. They do graze along the roadsides and could bolt in front of you, especially if you are speeding. Remember to drive slowly and be observant. I recommend no more than 45 mph, but I often drive only 25. It is not worth the risk to go faster.

Fall Color Update

2011-10-06T14:46:00.000-07:00

I get asked a lot about fall color in emails. Pretty hard to describe so I am posting one of my landscapes from today. I will probably do this one as an HDR, but this looks pretty good to me.

I took this waiting on the Beast to show up in the river. This is pretty much how I get landscapes, they are a secondary target for me. I especially like sunrise landscapes because of the all the values from dark to light. They look like paintings to me.

So this is for your information. What you see is what is there, here and there. It is early color, the color I prefer. According to most peak color is a couple of weeks off. This is enough to satisfy me.

Weekend Elk Viewing Preview -- 10/6/11 Elk Herd Map

2011-10-06T09:01:00.000-07:00

Conditions and herd locations are now set in a new pattern that should last through the weekend. The weather this weekend looks pretty much just like today. Monday there is a 20% chance of rain, we need rain badly again.

Somewhat warmer weather has viewing times compressed. This morning elk viewing in the fields was pretty much done at 8AM as the elk were migrating to shaded bedding areas. Elk dislike sunlight on these warmish days -- we are a bit unseasonably warm right now. There were people this morning viewing the elk at daybreak and they saw plenty of them.

The field just north of Smith Creek remains the best place to see the elk, however, this morning at daybreak the herd in the Ponca field was close to the fence along the road. There are straggling animals here and there, especially satellite bulls looking for a harem.

Sunrise along the river was beautiful today. Early fall color painted reflections on the pooled-up river. I personally prefer early color because the canopy will have more obvious patterns with some trees in full color, and others still green. It was magic out there today.

Updated Herd Map & Narrative 10/5/11

2011-10-05T08:55:00.000-07:00

Lots of bugling this morning, especially at the south end of Boxley Valley.

The map below lists 3 herd locations for today, but if the bugling is any indication, just off the map in the Upper Buffalo Wilderness there were at least two more. I think one would certainly be Maverick and his harem, the second I would not have a guess.

Pretty Boy and his harem remain in the second Ponca field. I believe they will be in that position for some time unless cattle are moved there to graze. This morning at around 7AM, he and his harem were pretty close to the fence.

In the south end the Beast continues his reign. Godzilla is running a small herd on the north end of the same field. Since these two have fought at least twice, I would think more fights are possible. There are many satellite bulls working these two herds. I have not seen Prince for a couple of days, but I am sure he is in that area.

I filmed my second river crossing today, but it was a small group. Beautiful setting. I hope to get at least some of it posted by the weekend.

New Elk Video On Arkansas Wildlife Photo Website

2011-10-04T18:35:00.000-07:00

I completed the video I mentioned in an earlier post. It is nothing special, but it does show the elk viewing experience and has lots of bugling. Many wonder what they might see, this is a decent sample to share. It is posted on YouTube, and I am also linking my videos off the top page of my site.

Bull Elk and Harem in Ponca Field

This is the bull I call "Pretty Boy". He looks to me like the winner of a fight that morning. He is tired and agitated. Lots of bugling. Some nice steamy breath.

I have more footage I need to process. Editing takes quite some time. Eventually I would like to post some short pieces on elk behavior. Enjoy.

10/4/11 Elk Herd Location Update

2011-10-04T10:41:00.000-07:00

As predicted, there is now a herd back in the Ponca fields after the haying was completed. Pretty Boy and his harem were out in force this morning in the second field south of the Ponca Access. He was pretty upset and agitated by a few satellite bulls nearby. I would not be surprised if he was ousted as he is still a bit on the small side for a herd bull. I shot some video footage, not sure when I will post it.

The south field by Smith Creek remains the very best field. This morning the Boxley Beast continued to be at the south end of the field with his harem. Godzilla was at the north end of the field and there were many satellite bulls. Godzilla appears now to be a satellite bull. There is a third herd bull near this field, I could hear him bugling this morning, but he never revealed himself to me. I posted myself along an elk trail hoping for a crossing. He did make a lot of noise. Maybe I will get him tomorrow. My suspicion is that he is Maverick, but I only call them when I see them.

Mandy's bull fight video has been viewed over 100 times already. It shows the power of monster bulls when they really fight. Worth a look if you have missed it so far.

The first little patches of fall color are now emerging. I have always preferred early color, and late color to peak color. I like the mix of color better with some greens. I would guess we will have enough color this weekend to call it early color. With the prolonged drought we had last summer, fall color is anyone's guess this year.

October 2, 2011 Elk Herd Map & Narrative

2011-10-03T10:43:00.000-07:00

The elk are taking a breather after being very active this weekend. The Boxley Beast continues to hold down the best viewing field in the south valley area. If you have to pick one spot to see and hear the elk that field continues as the top pick for all of the 2011 rut. It is THE field to see elk fights.

While that field continues to shine, the rest of the valley has calmed down a lot. Without question the rutting elk herds are back in the woods along the river. This is part of the normal rotation for these animals. Haying in a few of the fields in the valley has pushed the elk back for a while.

I had to pick a time for haying, the timing is just about perfect now to avoid impacting next weekend. By the weekend, many elk should return to the valley fields. Of course they don't work for me, and every day can be a surprise.

Please take to heart Saturday's sobering truck/elk accident of 21 near the Boxley Church. It happened just before dawn. During the elk rut all the elk are skittish and unpredictable. The only solution is to drive slowly and be observant. Often elk and deer graze along the roads at the ends of the day. Be on the lookout.

Final 10/1/2011 Bull Fight Video

2011-10-03T09:27:00.000-07:00

This is a REAL bull fight, not sparring. You can see the energy and the power of these two guys. Before they fought in the field in front of us, they fought in the river bed. I believe it was during this fight the Beast lost one of his eye guards.

Turns out this is about the longest bull fight on YouTube. Mandy and I edited the footage, added the sound back in with editing out some adult comments. This is Mandy's first video, talk about getting lucky with the subject. She did a great job -- it was the first time she used the camera.

I think the funniest part of this video is the satellite bull watching the fight. He got so excited he started bugling himself. As is pretty standard for one of these fights, the satellite bulls take all the cows, or at least many of them.

This was taken in south Boxley Valley just north of Smith Creek. So far in 2011, this remains the best viewing field. There is no question it is the field where you are likely to see a bull fight. For the time being, these two huge bulls are quite near one another. I know of two fights between them, there have probably been more.

Here is the direct link if you want to share this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4Pb_s1SG1o

The Boxley Beast vs. Godzilla Video

2011-10-02T13:50:00.000-07:00

We are still hacking around on this video file, but I thought it would be best to just get it out there and put the refined version up next. You will get the idea.

This is what a REAL bull fight looks like. The Boxley Beast and Godzilla have fought at least two times that I know of. The share the same field most days down by Smith Creek. They don't like each other, and this rivalry sets the stage for a fight just about any day.

Enjoy. This is our first video. We had to turn off the sound because of all the chatter of people watching the spectacle. What you are missing is the crash of the antlers and the rage. These are huge bulls. It is amusing to watch the "spectator" bull. It is as though he was looking for pointers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_J4VAf9SlQ4&feature=youtube_gdata

October 2, 2011 Elk Herd Locations

2011-10-02T11:13:00.000-07:00

Elk activity backed off a little this morning, but it was still pretty good. The main action continues to be at the south end, especially since haying elsewhere in the valley.

Remember to be careful driving in Boxley Valley.

Elk Death on 21

2011-10-02T10:16:00.000-07:00

Photo by Dan Davis

Nobody seems to get serious about driving slowly until the worst happens. This morning a bull elk was hit on HWY 21 near the old steam mill. It was very sad to see him laying on the side of the road, apparently with a broken neck, still breathing.

Remember that elk during the rut are skittish and amorous bulls wander in a state of distraction. Too often elk watchers are not much better.

There is not much to say that I have not said. There is never a time when it is safe to drive fast in Boxley Valley. The density of all wildlife is high, it is not just an elk thing. During the elk rut, conditions are more dangerous. There are plenty of deer, wild turkey, woodchucks, rabbit, skunks, coon and trumpeter swans. I have seen them all standing in the road, sometimes because some well meaning, but ignorant person has fed them or tamed them.

Another Fatality Along 43

If I could, I would reduce the speed limit in Boxley Valley to 45MPH. That is the fastest speed I recommend for safety. Faster than that, and your chance of hitting animals goes up dramatically because your braking distances go up dramatically. Highways 43 and 21 (basically the same road) are full of blind corners and dips that would block an animal from your view until too late. Elk or deer grazing in ditches can bolt suddenly in front of your vehicle. Is saving 2 minutes over 6 miles worth killing these animals?

Elk Graze Along 43 & 21

Pragmatically, even if you don't care about the animals, hitting a deer or elk can total your car, and occasionally somebody dies. This for saving 2 minutes. Do the right thing. Relax and enjoy one of the prettiest drives in Arkansas.

Drive carefully and be safe, especially during the elk rut, when elk and elk watchers forget about traffic and wander everywhere.

2 Bull Fights October 1 at South End

2011-10-02T04:47:00.000-07:00

The 8x8 Prince of Boxley

Saturday night there was another bull fight in the south end. That is 2 bull fights in the same day.

The south end field north of Smith Creek remains the hotspot in Boxley Valley. Not only is it setup for bullfights during active periods, the Prince is there as a satellite bull.

This picture is from last evening. We went down to the valley yesterday twice. Everyone must see Prince. Even the fellow satellite bulls recognize that Prince is something special.

I will be updating the viewing map later this morning.

Boxley Beast V. Godzilla -- The Beast Rules

2011-10-01T11:35:00.000-07:00

The Boxley Beast and Godzilla squared off this morning for a 20+ minute fight, starting in the river bed behind the field near Smith Creek, and resuming right in front of us. It was a rip snorting real deal bull fight. The two battlers are well matched but finally the Beast prevailed, but along the way one of his eye guards was broken off. Now he is a 7x7, no longer an 8x7.

This is the third fight in this field I know about in the last week.

As long as these two share the same field there will be fights. This is at least the second fight I know of between these two dominating herd bulls. So far the Boxley Beast has fought off all challengers. The rut is a long season and will continue at least through the month. Only time will tell if he can go the distance again this year and have a harem to the end.

I am working on an October map. It will be posted in a couple of hours. This morning there were elk only at the opposite ends of the valley. One herd near Ponca, and two in the Smith Creek Field (Godzilla's and the Boxley Beast's). While the Beast won the fight, Godzilla still is running a handful of cows.

Prince also made an appearance.

VIDEO. My wife Mandy cut her teeth on video last night, and this morning taped most of this bull fight. She is editing it now and it will be posted today. Visit later to see a video of the fight and the new October map.

Prince, Boxley Valley's Trophy Elk

2011-10-01T03:58:00.000-07:00

This is the best picture I have of the Prince of Boxley to date. This trophy elk is just amazing. His double drop tine with points is super rare.

This is a bull elk you will want to see. The double drop tines are so unusual that you should be able to ID him from quite a distance. He made this appearance last night just before sunset.

I hope to get better pictures of him this rut. This is a pretty good start.

9/30/11 Map -- September Patterns in Review

2011-09-30T08:30:00.000-07:00

As September closes, we have to be pleased with the start of the 2011 elk rut. At times there have been as many as 7 small herds with bulls, but most of the time there have been less.

The 2011 rut got underway early with the first rutting bull showing up the first week of the month. By mid-month, it felt like the rut was starting earlier than most years. The last week of September things hit another gear with many more cow elk coming into estrous. New big bulls showed up at the end of the month.

Bull fights will be common now but only occasionally visible. Fights happen in the woods, along the rivers, and at night. It is a bit hard to predict when they might occur. The key is context, meaning that herds near one another, and the presence of many satellite bulls, increase the odds of a fight greatly. For at least the month of September, the field down by Smith Creek on the south end of Boxley Valley has been the very best viewing location and the most likely place for a fight. That field holds the Boxley Beast, a very dominant bull elk. Only in the last part of the month has a herd shown up in the Ponca Fields.

On the great news front, this year Boxley Valley has a bull in the super trophy class. Prince is an 8x8 symmetrical atypical bull. His twin drop tines with twin spikes on each one, has to be as fine a rack as has been seen in Arkansas. Today he has started moving north in Boxley Valley, away from the south field he has occupied for at least 2 weeks. Visitors will want to see this bull.

Starting tomorrow, I will post a brand new October calendar. The dates are too crowded to do the whole season on one calendar. I will post the September calendar right under the new October calendar for reference until after the first couple of weeks.

When Kindness Kills

2011-09-29T13:03:00.000-07:00

Help Us Protect This Calf Elk

This photographer, like many others, was approached by this calf elk. Someone, surely not her, has been feeding this orphaned calf elk and he is now tame.

I alerted the AGFC through the Ponca Elk Education Center of this situation. At this time the plan is to get this calf relocated. He is currently along Highway 43 near the Mill Pond.

Please avoid contact with this animal. If you visit, be on the alert for him. He will not avoid traffic well and is a danger to himself and others.

All the cautions I have offered about driving slowly in Boxley Valley should be doubled during the rut. This tame calf just makes things more dangerous.

Please drive at 40MPH or slower. I drive in the 30's in areas where I know elk are. During the rut amorous bulls run everywhere, and like this calf, they are not so careful. Go slowly and be safe. The 6 miles of Boxley Valley can be driven in under 10 minutes at slow speeds. Going 55 is insane during the rut.

Let's hope this little guy will survive long enough to be relocated.

9/29/11 Elk Herd Locations

2011-09-29T11:12:00.000-07:00

After today's warm weather, a cooling period will bring ideal temperatures and significantly longer viewing times, and improved viewing. There were plenty of elk hanging around this morning but they pretty much left the fields by 8:30AM. I expect significantly longer viewing this weekend. Even if nothing changed, this is prime time and the elk viewing is just great.

Lots of bugling. We are in the peak period of activity in the 2011 Arkansas Elk Rut. This weekend will be absolutely great elk viewing.

Today's elk herd location map is below:

Elk Herd Locations 9/29/11

9/28/11 Elk Herd Location Report

2011-09-28T08:45:00.000-07:00

Scene from Bull Fight by Smith Creek

Nice prime time action this morning with lots of bugling and one bull fight. The number of visible elk herds is down from 7 to 5 this AM. This is a very dynamic time and herds will move around a lot. Apparently a couple of the herds headed off to the back fields.

The fight I saw this morning was between a couple of big satellite bulls in the south field by Smith Creek. These guys are a couple of years away from being dominant herd bulls, and they fought like herd bulls. I only caught the tail end of the fight, but I got a real decent shot.

The south end down by Smith Creek remains the best place to view and photograph elk. While all the bulls in the valley are bugling, there is a lot more bugling in the south end due to the concentration of satellite bulls.

There is a calf elk that is graze along roadside by the mill pond. It has been accompanied by a couple of orphaned whitetail fawns. Watch for these and drive very carefully.

Weekend Weather Will Be Great

2011-09-28T04:46:00.000-07:00

According to the latest weather forecast, highs will be in the lower to mid 70's, and lows in the low 50's or even high 40's this weekend. Wednesday is usually a pretty good day to predict weekend weather for the coming weekend. This is an ideal weather forecast for elk viewing.

If you have been timing your visit, this weekend is a great choice. The elk rut is at the beginning of the peak. For photographers clear skies will make photography more difficult, but there are many good pictures to be had at the ends of the day. The field at the south end of Boxley Valley is on the west side of 21 so the early light would be ideal. Most other fields in the valley are better suited to evening shooting, they are on the east side of the highway.

If you spend the day, this is also ideal hiking weather. During the mid day the elk will probably not be visible. Consider taking a side trip to Lost Valley. It is located in the upper third of Boxley Valley near the elk observation pullout. The trail is ideal for families. It is relatively flat, short, and very scenic. It is consistently rated at the top of hiking trails in the Buffalo National River system.

Visitors should also plan on visiting the award winning Ponca Elk Education Center in Ponca. This is a national class facility. It has many educational exhibits and free posters, educational materials, and paper antlers for the kids.

9/27/11 Map -- Same Bull Elk Pattern as Yesterday

2011-09-27T08:52:00.000-07:00

The elk herd location map for 9/27/11 is below.

Bull locations and IDs same as last entry. Yesterday there was a confirmed fight in the field just north of Smith Creek. The Boxley Beast squared off for a long fight with (I assume Godzilla) and won after a 15-20 minute battle. The Beast is a dominating bull and he is proving it in 2011. That south field is probably the best forage in the valley now, other fields have been hayed. The Beast put down roots and he is staying for sure.

Great viewing and lots of bugling. The south end remains the best viewing. Fights can happen any time as the bulls are now working out their pecking order for 2011. Usually the early part of the rut has the most bull fights, but they are still rare.

9/26/11 Report -- 2011 Elk Rut is Smokin'

2011-09-26T11:48:00.000-07:00

The 2011 Elk Rut in Boxley Valley is really smoking now. The bulls have arrived and there are 7 herds with herd bulls going now. Of course, most of these are small -- a bull with a handful of cow elk. The big guy remains the Boxley Beast in the south end of the Smith Creek Field.

Visitors will find elk in all the traditional fields from one end of the valley to the other. This morning the bulls were bugling until 10 when I left. In the early morning light they were really bugling often.

Here is the lineup of 7 herds and bulls from North to South:

Ponca Fields -- Junk Yard Dog (JYD) -- New arrival, he has nearly perfect rack that is kind of round. A great bull with a handful in his harem. He was a late bull last year. (Ponca Fields)
Middle Valley Field -- Pretty Boy, an early rut bull from last year is in the middle valley field, not a great viewing spot. He is still a bit small, I expect him to be replaced.
43/21 Intersection -- Many bulls and a small group of cows. No ID on the herd bull.
Moore Creek Field -- Small group of cows with no ID on the herd bull.
North End of Smith Creek Field -- Godzilla with a handfull of cow elk.
South End of Smith Creek Field -- Boxley Beast and a nice harem, probably the largest.
Trailhead to the Upper Wilderness -- Maverick with a handful of cows.

The conditions could not be better for viewing. My choice would be the south end by Smith Creek. I believe the traffic is lower there and there are plenty of animals and lots of bugling. Also, be on the lookout for Prince. He is a satellite bull to the Boxley Beast herd.

Be safe and drive carefully. The elk are moving around a lot and cross the highway more often in rut.

9/25/11 Elk Herd Report

2011-09-25T08:21:00.000-07:00

The very best elk viewing continues to be in the field just north of Smith Creek at the south end of Boxley Valley. Lots of bugling.

Viewing has really picked up now. Last night there were 25 cars in the valley. This morning there were more -- perhaps as many as 35-40. The south end field has the biggest herd in the valley, and a second herd. The Boxley Beast has no significant challengers so far. Prince, one of the satellite bulls to this south herd, remains the most visually striking bull seen in the valley in many years -- probably over 10. (See my last post.) A second herd headed by Maverick shares the north end of that south field.

The 2011 elk rut is now in its peak in Boxley Valley. This coupled with perfect viewing weather has extended viewing hours significantly. Yesterday the elk were out at 3:00 in the afternoon. They were still in the fields at 9AM today when I left. These viewing times will compress a lot if the heat returns. I still recommend getting to the valley by daybreak, roughly 7AM for the very best viewing.

As I predicted, a herd now occupies the Ponca fields at the north end of the valley. I looked at the bull this morning and he looks like Pretty Boy. I don't think he can hold his harem as the biggest bulls filter into the 2011 rut, he is still a couple of years away in size.

There is another herd behind a horse field in the mid-valley area.

Currently there are 4 herds worth looking at in Boxley Valley. Bugling is everywhere, but frequent around the south end. Straggler bulls can be observed along the cane lines on their way to joining the rut.

If you plan to visit the rut, the very best time is now and the next two weeks, although it will be very good for at least until the end of October.

Introducing the Prince of Boxley -- A Bull for the Ages

2011-09-25T02:33:00.000-07:00

2011 stunner, the Prince. In my many years of photographing elk in Boxley Valley I have never seen a bull like this one. 8x8 irregular, two drop tines. Nearly perfect symmetry. A must-see animal. This big guy is only a satellite bull now, but just imagine him in the next few years.

He showed up yesterday, part of this second wave that has showed up this week.

The Prince is a bull you will want to see and want to photograph. He has double drop tines each with two points making him an 8x8. This rack is very rare. A trophy picture for sure. He looks like a statue outside of Bass Pro -- he is that class.

I thought at first this might be the Boxley Stud, but he is too small and his eye guards are not quite the same. He is a year or two away from being a herd bull class animal. Let's hope with these great genetics he will breed a lot.

He is currently in the south end as a satellite to the Boxley Beast's herd. He is too small to be a serious challenger but in a couple of years he may be the new ruler.

The Prince of Boxley Valley -- A Bull Elk Everyone Must-See

Elk Rut Now at Peak -- 9/24/11 Report

2011-09-24T16:23:00.000-07:00

The 2011 Elk Rut is now at peak, there is no question. This high level of activity will continue for another 3 to 4 weeks. During this early period of the rut bull elk fights are most common, but seeing one is a rare event, even for frequent visitors. Sparring by satellite bulls is fairly common.

What is meant by "being at peak"? A few things. First, there are many more cows in heat now. You can see this by the behavior of the bulls. Second, the very biggest bulls have now arrived. In the last few days the Boxley Stud and Bubba Stud bulls have joined the rut. There are two more bulls that are herd bull class that I have not ID'ed or named, but I have seen them.

Over the next week or so, the stuggle for control of a herd of cows will pick up. Bull elk now have many estrous cows to motivate them. It is their scent that has motivated the big boys to join the rut. Stars of the 2010 rut are now back. The current main contenders are the Boxley Beast, Maverick, Hacksaw, and the Bubba Stud all with cows now. The Boxley Stud and Godzilla are satellite bulls to the south field where the Boxley Beast and Maverick have harems. Maverick will have his hands full with these two, the Boxley Beast probably can fend them off. There is an additional bull I have not named yet, I saw him for the first time today. He is also a satellite in the same south field.

These situations are very dynamic. Sometimes bulls move their harem a mile or more away overnight. The one unwavering fundamental to elk watching is to check the entire Boxley Valley end to end with each visit. The current great viewing in the field near Smith Creek can change overnight to nothing.

Remember these three things as well:

Last year's great viewing location means very little. Year to year locations can change a lot.
Second, the elk observation pullout by the Lost Valley entrance is a terrible place to view elk, they are practically never there. It is a 1% likelihood location at best.
Elk and cattle do not mix. If you see cattle in a field, you probably will not see elk. They don't mix.

Things You Should Not Do

I have already observed trespassing on private property. Approaching elk to get closer only drives them back. You have no right to enter private land, if a park ranger comes by you will get a ticket.
Pay attention to traffic. Pull off as far as you can to avoid traffic. Keep out of the road.
Do not stop in a traffic lane and block traffic.
Focus on your driving, not the elk. You could kill someone.

9/24/11 Elk Location Map, Boxley Valley

9/23/11 Elk Rut Report -- The Beast Has Moved

2011-09-23T10:47:00.000-07:00

The field down by Smith Creek on the south end of Boxley Valley continues to be the number one spot for elk watching and photography. Plenty of bugling and somewhat longer viewing hours in this nice patch of cool weather we are having. There were about 8 cars elk watching and taking pictures this morning.

The herd in the mid-valley area is pretty far back from the road. With the Ponca fields open, I feel certain this herd will be migrating north. I always counsel visitors to drive the length of the valley for this reason. It would not be uncommon for that herd to show up in the Ponca fields overnight. Or not. For example, the Boxley Beast moved his herd over a mile away overnight.

The change for today is that the Boxley Beast has moved his harem out of this field to a back field for the time being well out of viewing distance and on private land. He will be back. His herd's current location has relatively little forage.

We are now entering prime time for elk viewing. The rut is still picking up steam. This weekend should be great viewing, at least in the south end of Boxley Valley.

Rain -- 9/22/11 Elk Herd Report -- Weekend Viewing Conditions Excellent

2011-09-22T09:30:00.000-07:00

Our needed rains have not altered the elk herd location pattern. There are still a couple of herds not accounted for that no doubt are in back fields away from the valley. A few outstanding fields remain vacant that will be the eventual home of one of these herds.

The rut seems to be earlier overall this year. Many of the biggest bulls have arrived about a week early. I think it is significant that the Bubba Stud has been seen.

This weekend promises to continue outstanding elk viewing. So far this year, the south end remains the best place to see the elk herds during the rut. That big field has not been hayed, and it will not be grazed by cattle. There is at least one pond, and there is pooled water behind the field in the Buffalo River. Those are ideal conditions. The area is also probably safer for viewing than further up the valley -- there is less traffic based on my informal observations.

With all the infrastructure projects being discussed by the federal government, we should be pushing for creation of the elk viewing pullouts in the valley by the relevant authorities. These have been planned for years to no end. Nobody should have to die to get the state and federal authorities serious about creating these pullouts.

9/21/11 Elk Rut Report & Map

2011-09-21T09:38:00.000-07:00

Things are in flux now in Boxley Valley. Cattle have been relocated so there will be a change in elk movements.

The south field between Smith Mountain Road and Smith Creek remains the best place to see elk. Yesterday the field held two herds, today it was one -- clearly the second herd had moved. The remaining herd is the Boxley Beast. There is still a lot of bugling in the south valley area.

I suspect that the moving herds will show up at the 43/21 intersection fields and/or the Ponca fields in the next couple of days (or sooner). North is the logical direction for movement under these conditions.

On the good news front I spoke with some people from Missouri who saw the Bubba Stud bull last evening. I have not seen him yet, but it is good to know he is around and participating in the rut. He has a distinctive large drop tine and a collar making him easy to ID. Perhaps he has taken over Hacksaw's herd as he did last year. I will share pictures as soon as I get them.

9/20/11 Elk Rut Report, 2 Week Summary, & Elk Location Map

2011-09-20T11:33:00.000-07:00

We are now just two weeks into the 2011 Arkansas elk rut. Currently in Boxley Valley there are 4 herd bulls driving the action.

In the south end of the valley in the field roughly between Smith Mountain Road and Smith Creek we have two big bulls with herds. The premier bull is the Boxley Beast, last year's dominant bull, or at least the largest bull. He arrived just a week ago and took over a large herd from Maverick, a nice herd bull but not one of the huge bulls. Currently Maverick has claimed a part of his original herd and is at the opposite end of the field shared with the Beast. There are many satellite bulls around these two herds. I believe these two bulls will fight for control to make one herd out of two. My money is on the Beast.

Godzilla is on a back field somewhere. Haven't seen him for over a week. He is a player, but he has moved his herd to a back field.

In the mid valley area Hacksaw is moving his herd slowly north. Now that the fields near Ponca no longer have cattle in them, I expect him to move there. This is just an educated guess based on watching movements for years. I call the fields north of the entrance to Lost Valley the "Ponca Fields" because elk herds will move between them as though they are one. All of this hinges on the presence of cattle. If cattle, no elk. It is just about that simple. They don't mix.

The fourth bull in the Ponca Fields is an irregular 7x5 I call Tiny Fork. At the end of his right antler is a fork that is nearly grown together. He is a nice sized bull, but I think he is a year or two away from herd bull status.

So this year's lineup of bulls so far is the Boxley Beast, Godzilla, Maverick, Hacksaw, and Tiny Fork. Based on past experience, I expect to see more big bulls arrive soon. We are missing some of last year's cast, notably the Boxley Stud and Bubba Stud. Both have drop tines, but Bubba Stud is collared. It will be interesting to see if they show up for the big dance. So far as I know, neither was taken in the elk hunt last year.

I will post an album of the 2011 bulls soon.

For now, if you want to see rutting bulls and hear bugling, head to the south end of Boxley Valley between Smith Creek and Smith Mountain Road. I still consider this area ripe for a bull fight. I believe the majority of cow elk are not estrous at this time. Give it another week.

9/19/11 Elk Locations

2011-09-19T09:58:00.000-07:00

Elk viewing in Boxley Valley has settled into a pretty stable pattern. There are two large herds, the rest of the elk are mostly stragglers, mostly wandering single bulls, or small groups of bulls.

There is a third bull with a small herd that has popped up close to Ponca, but he has only a couple of cows. As the rut progresses this herd will be consolidated into a larger herd.

We are still not at the point where the majority of the cow elk are ready to breed. When that happens, the pace of action will increase, as will the frequency of bull fights. It is still early in the 2011 Arkansas elk rut.

Naming and IDing Bull Elk, Embracing the Natural

2011-09-18T15:25:00.000-07:00

Boxley Beast -- Ear, Low Key, Great Rack

People often ask me how I can tell one bull elk from another. They do look more alike than different to the untrained eye. The standard "rap" on a mature elk is that they are all 6x6's and look alike. To one who looks at a lot of elk, individual differences jump out, even across multiple years with slightly different antlers. Experts know where to look and what to look at. Most bulls have a few distinct traits that taken together make them easy to ID.

Here is my short list of what I look at:

Fighting Scars -- Many herd bulls have scars around their shoulders and sides from past fights.
Body Shape -- Bulls are muscular, but some are real thick. Younger bulls are slim by comparison. Really big herd bulls have bellies.
Antler Points -- Obviously point counts differ, usually elk bulls pick up points with age.
Antler Span -- The distance between the right and left antlers in the middle, and at the tips.
Palmate Antlers -- Old bulls have antlers that get wide and look moose-like with points along the "palms". Curly was an example of this trait.
Antler Sweep & Curve -- Some antlers curve down, some are straight looking like ladders. With some, the tips curve together, and others are straight.
Point Height -- Some bulls have short points, and some long. Some bulls will have a long point on only one side.
Combinations of long and short tines on the same rack. This can vary a lot from bull to bull.
Drop Tines -- A handful of bulls have drop tines. Last year it was the Boxley Stud and Bubba Stud that had drop tines. Curly had drop eye guards.
Eye Guards -- Some bulls have long eye guards, some short, some wide, some narrow, some with drop tips.
Radio Collars -- Some bulls look similar, but one will have a collar, and another will not. Bubba Stud had a collar, the Boxley Stud does not.
Other Injuries -- The Boxley Beast's left ear tip flops down for example. Cotton Eye Jack had a bad eye.

Bubba Stud -- Radio Collar, Drop Tine, Fierce Fighter

Temperament -- Two examples come to mind. The Boxley Beast is a pretty low-keyed bull in contrast to the Bubba Stud that just rages during the rut. Elk do have personalities.

Taken together, these many traits allow one to quickly close in on IDing a bull elk. Sometimes you have to look more closely at an image from a shoot, but often you can ID the animal quickly. Some traits are relatively rare like drop tines, or the injured left ear of the Boxley Beast.

Curly -- Palmate Antlers &
Drop-tine Eye Guards

I missed seeing Curley last year, perhaps the oldest elk in the valley in recent years. I wonder if he simply died, or perhaps moved to a different area. I look for him still with his distinct palmate antlers and drop tine eye guards. I will probably never know what has happened to him, but that is a part of what makes elk viewing fascinating for me.

Naming and IDing the bull elk in Boxley Valley connects me with their lives and how they move through the seasons and across years. I observe the changing of the guard like this year when Maverick, an early rutting bull, lost out to the Boxley Beast in an early struggle for dominance. I would not see this with nameless animals, every one looking alike. IDing them allows me to track them, naming them helps me both explain them to others. These names seem to resonate with elk fans I meet in the valley who ask me about this bull or that. They seem to be connecting with the "elk experience" in a new way, perhaps seeing the stories for the first time. That is my hope.

One of the things I like most about doing this blog and my huge website is that it is my hope that they lead readers to a deeper love of nature. John Muir said it best in his Wilderness Essays, "“I care to live only to entice people to look at Nature’s loveliness.” I am not a John Muir, but I do believe that moving closer to nature informs life, and if more of us will do so, we will not only be ecologically responsible, we will improve the human prospect.

9/18/11 Elk Rut Report

2011-09-18T11:02:00.000-07:00

Good elk viewing this morning, outstanding at the south end near Smith Creek. The Boxley Beast continues to control the south herd, but he has many challengers. This morning there was a lot of bugling and we could hear one fight that took place in what seemed like the river bed. This south herd remains the most likely spot to see a bull fight. These fights are never common, but it is clear when the conditions are right for one as they are now.

Elk are scattered elsewhere across the valley. Mid-valley is a second good sized herd. There is a small herd that has entered the Ponca fields, something I predicted. It was not clear to me how large the Ponca herd is because it was partially in the woods along the river.

This remains good elk viewing weather. Any weather below 80 degree highs is pretty good. The overcast skies favor the elk viewing because elk dislike direct sunlight except in very cold weather.

Visitors wishing to hear elk bugle should go to the south end by Smith Creek. That herd bull, the Boxley Beast, is fending off many challengers and they are bugling often. These challengers are the key to frequent bugling, herd bulls elsewhere in the valley are bugling, but it is comparatively less common.

Elk Herd Positions in Boxley Valley 9/18/11

Boxley Beast Returns, beats Maverick to Claim South End Herd

2011-09-17T07:39:00.000-07:00

The Boxley Beast returned for the 2011 rut and took over Maverick's herd down by Smith Creek. The Beast is now an 8x7, with two extra small points on his right antler. Many satellite bulls, and some challengers behind his field migrating along the Buffalo River bed. The south end remains a prime location for a possible bull fight.

Hacksaw is mid-valley with a nice herd.

Both herds have been in pretty stable positions now for a relatively long time. For best viewing and photo ops go to the south end herd down by Smith Creek.

More solitary bulls are showing up as the early rut progresses. They can be seen here and there the length of Boxley Valley.

Updated 9/17/11 map below:

9/17/11 Elk Locations in Boxley Valley near Ponca, AR

September 16 Elk Rut Update

2011-09-16T11:50:00.000-07:00

The September 16 elk rut map is below. Not much changed overnight. There are more bulls arriving every day.

Maverick and his harem continue to be the best elk viewing in Boxley Valley. They continue to hang out in the area near Smith Creek at the south end. The only changes I see day to day are the arrival of some new satellite bulls.

Satellite bulls are generally smaller bulls that hang around the edges of a herd. The herd bull spends much of his time driving them off. Most often satellite bulls are not big enough to challenge the herd bull. I would say that Maverick's herd now has 5 or 6 satellite bulls.

Hacksaw continues to be in the middle valley area. This morning it appeared that his herd was heading south, but that is only my general impression.

Elsewhere there seem to be more solitary bulls. It is not uncommon to see one standing in a field along the valley. As the rut progresses these lone bulls can become quite unpredictable. I have had them jump in front of my car more than once. I still recommend driving no more than 45MPH to give yourself good braking distance.

The fields near the Ponca Access no longer have any cattle in them. I would expect an elk herd to show up there in a few days. Always check the whole valley for herds before choosing one for viewing or photography.