10/11/14 Elk Bugling Strong this Morning by Ponca

There are 2 rutting bulls with abou 40 cows total near the Ponca Access at the north end of Boxley Valley. In addition, there were 3 or 4 large satellite  bulls hanging around. All 6 bulls were bugling and fussing over the cow elk. The bugling was over by 10AM. I am certain this evening and tomorrow morning will be good for elk viewing and bugling. With all those bulls there is a good chance for a bull elk fight. The Smith Creek field on the south end was empty this morning. On high river levels sometimes herds seem to be blocked from visiting the fields where they can be seen.  This might be true in the south end of Boxley Valley.

9/28/14 Elk Herd Map

Tonight there were 2 good herds in the valley and a nice crowd. They were at opposite ends of the valley. Godzilla had his harem out tonight in the south end. At the other end of the valley a bigger cow herd was in the Ponca Fields.  I would say the Ponca Fields will be where the next bull fight will take place. That bull is kind of small. I saw quite a few bulls headed to the north end of the valley.  A couple of them were quite large and right on time. The only question about the fights is will they be in the daytime. Elk do fight at night and in very low light. 

Maverick Bull Elk 

I took this picture in thin fog. 1/20th of a second wide open at ISO 2000. This is a maverick bull hanging out near the rutting herd by the 43/21 intersection. It is just a matter of time before he joins that group and challenges for the harem. In the meantime he is hanging out in the woods.  I am told that evening viewing is good. Would be nice to have better light. This shot is more or less impossible.

Ozark Rooster in Deep Snow

This is one of my roosters, Checkerbird, attempting to navigate in 5 inches of snow yesterday morning. He did a quick 180 and headed back into the coop as fast as possible. Those of us who have chickens will vouch that chickens are indeed "chicken". When in doubt they are afraid of everything.

This snow has all but disappeared in 24 hours. Water is flowing pretty hard everywhere. It is a good time to get waterfall pictures if you like austere winter photos.

Ozark Rooster in the Snow

10/9/13 Elk Herd Locations & Report

Elk viewing was offbeat this morning.  There were only 2 herds in very heavy fog.  At the south end Hooks really put on a show as though he were covering the valley for the day.  I got very close to him in mixed light, even had to dial back on my zoom some.

I would say the most reliable viewing and shooting remains down by the Buffalo on the south end. Today this could change quite a lot after the heavy fog lifts, especially for evening viewing.

10/8/13 Elk Herd Location Map

Pretty good elk viewing today.  The big Ponca herd took the day off. There were some stragglers around, but the best viewing was in the south end.

People who arrived early saw Little Tine fairly close to the fence at the 43/21 intersection.  The best viewing was down by the river at the south end where "Hooks" and his small harem were very visible. He was posing in nice light for the many photographers and elk watchers.

There were stragglers elsewhere.  Nutty bull elk behavior is beginning to show. Like 16 year old boys at the dance, it is pretty hard to figure what they might do.  Add a little extra caution when you visit the valley.

Visitors saw 2 bald eagles today down by the south end.  This is pretty early, but I have heard reports that the migration seems to be beginning because of the rough weather up north.  We shall see.

9/23/13 Elk Herd Location Map

Today there were 4 herds spread across the valley. Unless you were pretty good at spotting elk you might not see the 4th in the Smith Creek field because of the tall grass.  There are at least 3 herd bulls in the valley.  Hooks has moved near the mill pond,  Pretty Boy has the biggest harem just north of the elk pullout, and JYD is in the Smith Creek field area.  The rut is still revving up, now is the time, and every day will increase the number of cow elk in heat.  Today seemed pretty sedate, but I am sure I saw a big bull migrating down to the valley.

As you can see, the biggest herd is near the pullout.  Expect attacks there from other bull elk who are only now arriving to the rut.  Typically the very biggest elk arrive around last week of the month, and the big dogs around October 1.  Of the current bull elk only JYD looks like he will survive the challenges yet to come.  This is very typical most years.

9/15/13 Elk Herd Locations -- Big Bull in South Valley Area

Elk are at the opposite ends of Boxley Valley now.   A small herd is near the Ponca Access, and a good sized herd is down by Cave Mountain Road at the south end.  The herd at the south end has a nice 7x7 bull.

9/13/13 Elk Herd Map & Weekend Outlook

Elk viewing was not very good this morning.  Despite cooler temperatures, the elk herds remain dug in close to the river or in the back woodlands.  One herd was visible this morning down by Smith Creek.

This welcome break from the heat will change elk viewing patterns over the next few days, possibly by Saturday or Sunday.  Only the elk know for sure.  I did hear some bugling this morning, but not as much as earlier in the week.

4/19/13 Elk Viewing Good, Wildflowers Outstanding

Wild Plum Blossoms near Broadwater Falls

Elk viewing is strong in Boxley Valley especially in the south end near the trailhead to the upper
wilderness.

The big news this week are the dogwood trees that are blooming everywhere. Waterfall fans will want to visit to get their chance at dogwoods and redbuds framing the waterfalls. The waterfall flow is now very good -- this is in an outstanding opportunity.

Floating conditions are outstanding in all areas of the river.

Hiking conditions are also ideal.

We are now entering the peak of spring season with many things to do.  It is a great time to vist the river.

4/12/13 Elk Viewing Good, Wildflower Bloom Strong

Wood Bentony Lost Valley

Elk viewing remains strong at both ends of Boxley Valley. The antler drop is now almost complete except for young bulls. The most viewable herd is closest to Ponca about a half mile south from the intersection of 43 and 74.

Wildflowers are the big story now. After many cold snaps, the spring show is on. Most early species are blooming well. Flowering trees are also in bloom with the dogwoods lagging just a bit.

Waterfalls are running well and popular with photographers and hikers.

Floating conditions in all areas of the river. Visit the Buffalo River Chamber website for our list of floating outfitters and current river conditions.

This is prime time for hiking and horseback riding.

It is time to visit the Buffalo National River and its many natural attractions.

3/29/13 Elk Viewing Very Good, Wildflowers Rebound & Resume the 2013 Bloom

Rue Anemones Are Blooming

Elk viewing is very good now. This morning, in spite of morning thunderstorms, elk were out grazing. Elk love rain, so viewing should be good all weekend.

April 1 is the rough date of the annual antler drop.  I did not see any bulls without antlers, but the "drop" will happen any time now. It is illegal to collect sheds on the NPS park lands.

The wildflowers have rebounded from a second bout of winter weather. Last week I made no entry because I could not get off the mountain -- we had nearly an inch of ice on the ground. The following days were bitter cold, perhaps colder than any time in the winter with windchills as low as 8 degrees.

Twice this year wildflowers blossomed in warm weather, and were hammered by cold weather. So far as I can tell, this double reset has had little effect. The one species that is at the end of its bloom cycle is the white trout lily.  There are still small pockets of them here and there, and I am sure other wildflower venues might be at peak for this species.

Today a few species were added to the first bloom dates. Rue anemone, blood root and pale corydalis are now blooming. This is early for blood root and there are few plants. I expect a longer than usual bloom for this species because of the oddball weather patterns.  One the way now are trillium sessile. Lots baby wildflowers are evident.  The cut leaf toothworts appear to be in peak bloom.

If foliage is any indicator, this will be the best year for wildflowers in recent memory. I know the species locations of many varieties, and the footprint for them has expanded greatly. I am sure this is attributable to the rain patterns.

3/15/13 Great Elk Viewing, Wildflowers Started

White Trout Lilies

Elk viewing is very good. There were 4 herds in Boxley Valley today and two were close to the road. Big bulls tend to hang back except in early morning.  The warm weather this weekend should reduce viewing hours a bit.

The antler drop for big bulls is just about 2 weeks off now. Big bull fans have until around April 1 to see the big racks and then will have to wait until the next cycle.

The biggest news in Boxley Valley is the wildflower bloom. The wildflower bloom will heavy this year because of the moisture. Today it was clear that the early bloom pattern would continue. This week Ozark wake robins, cut leaf toothwort, and sharp lobed hepaticas joined the white trout lilies in the first wave of the spring wildflower season.  Trillium sessile are budded and will bloom in the next few days. All of this is very early. The good news is that visitors this weekend can enjoy elk and early wildflowers in beautiful spring weather.

Floating season has started. It is a great time to be at the Buffalo National River.

2/8/13 Elk Viewing Great -- Best Bull Viewing So Far

This morning was exceptional for bull elk viewing and photography. The big guys were mid-valley and close to the road.  Prince and another big bull did some spirited sparring that required me to dial back to 300 mm to photograph.

Otherwise there is a good sized herd with a bull in the Ponca fields, and another good sized herd hanging around Smith Creek. The bulls are just north of the mill pond in mid-valley so there is viewing from end to end in Boxley Valley.

The big news is the early arrival of the wildflower season. Recent rains and warm weather have stimulated an early bloom. I will be blogging on this later. What we are witnessing is global warming.

The February 8, 2013 elk herd map is below:

1/11/13 Elk Herd Report & Location Map

Boxley Valley elk remain in a south valley pattern. Viewing opportunities are from just north of the mill pond down to the Buffalo River at the south end.

Today seemed like one of those days when the wildlife were everywhere, finally getting a break from rainy, cloudy weather. Saturday afternoon rain is predicted, and weather becomes cold again on Sunday. This kind of weather is elk weather. If the predictions hold, viewing could actually be a bit better this weekend.

Otherwise, all the usual advice holds. To see bulls, get out early. They are north of the mill pond and generally gone just after sunrise except on very cold days. Watch the edges of the mill pond for bald eagles -- they are now in season. The pond has a very active beaver colony now, and occasionally there are otter. Also, always check the Ponca Access, it is a very good area for birds, and occasionally you will see an otter there.

As always, drive slowly in Boxley Valley.

12/7/12 Elk Herd Locations & Report

Elk viewing remains very good. The herds have returned to the pattern that has dominated this fall after a brief break.

Viewing is from the Ponca Fields to just south of the 43/21 intersection.

Bald eagles are now arriving and will make an occasional appearance in Boxley Valley, most often along the mill pond area.

The 12/7/12 map follows:

10/5/12 Elk Herd Locations & Update

Last night elk viewing was good, this morning the herds left for cover early because of coming thunder storms. Elk and other wildlife seem to know about coming weather well ahead of its arrival. Today was such a day.

The good news is that the herd in Lost Valley made another appearance this morning in the field in front of the Clark homestead. Another nice elk herd was behind the old Villines Store just south of Lost Valley. For the first time in a long time, there were no elk in the south end of the valley. I am sure they are there, but in deep cover behind the viewing areas.

The map for 10/5/12 is below:

Elk Herd Locations in Boxley Valley near Ponca, AR

10/4/12 Elk in Lost Valley this PM

Elk were in Lost Valley in front of the old Clark homestead this evening. This herd seems to be sticking around. There are good chances elk will be in Lost Valley tomorrow. Be sure to check.

10/3/12 Elk Herd Location Map

Haying over the last few days is now complete, and the elk are only now returning to normal. Viewing was light tonight, but the weather change and another day after haying should improve weekend viewing dramatically. This is the peak rut period and the elk are real motivated now to get the breeding done. Rain and cool temperatures over the next few days should really bring out the herds. 

Listen to Locate Bull Elk Fights

It is now prime time for bull elk fights in the buffalo national river region. One of the very best ways to locate a bull elk fight is to listen for them.

There are two ways to listen for a fight. The first one is pretty obvious -- listen for the loud clatter of the antlers. A real bull fight can be heard a half mile away in Boxley Valley. It is quite possible you will not be able to see a fight you can hear after you relocate, but remember that bulls often fight over a large area. Last year when the Boxley Beast fought Godzilla, it started in the river and they moved into view in a few minutes. The fight continued for 15 more minutes in plain view.

The second tip is about the bugling. You may never read this insider secret anywhere else online. When bull elk get ready to fight, they "counter-bugle", meaning they are calling back and forth to each other, and it is clear that they are getting agitated. I listen for two patterns. First, the bugles are back and forth and become more frequent. Second, as the bulls get angry, their bugles get "gravelly" and rough. These patterns set the stage for a challenge and a possible fight.

Most people don't pay attention to what is going on. The key lesson here is to always be alert and use your ears as well as you eyes. If you do, your chances of seeing bull fight go up a lot. Once you see a real bull fight you will never forget it.