Bugling begins in Boxley Valley's 2014 elk rut

This morning the herd bull down by Smith Creek began bugling in response to a shag bull that was hanging around. I am sure this has been going on for a few days.  Boxley Valley had about 70 elk between 2 herds and a few stragglers. Be on the lookout for roadside animals in the south valley area.

September 2014 Elk Location Map

groups.  Viewing was good early, and later the herds bedded down in the fields in overcast, cool weather. The peak of the rut is ahead. Usually the biggest bulls arrive around October 1 as more cow elk go into heat.

12/25/13 Elk Herd Locations in Boxley Valley

There were 2 small bull herds and 1 small cow herd in Boxley Valley this Christmas morning.  All together there were maybe 30 elk in 3 locations. 

Merry Christmas everyone and best wishes for 2014. 

Bull Elk Herd by 43/21

Bull elk herd at 43/21 field. I chose this image because "Box" was looking at the other elk with the shag grazing. The eye contact between animals that happens now and then matters a lot. Viewers read human emotion into these moments. In the background you can see the mill pond lit up by blue light from the sky.

I had the place to myself. When I left about 9:30 the bulls were still in about this position. To get this compo, I stayed south of the herd so that my shooting angle took in the mill pond. I could have got a lot closer, but then the background would have been a farm field.

All-bull Post Rut Herd by 43/21

10/30/13 Elk Herd Locations & Report

There was a small elk herd down by the Ponca access this morning, but that was about all that was going on.  This is a rainy weather pattern. The elk holed up early and could pop out anytime under these conditions.  The Ponca fields remain the best place to see elk for a few days now.

I did see 5 or 6 scattered bulls heading south in the valley.  One group looked like the "biggest bulls" herd from a distance.

10/14/13 Elk Herd Locations & Report

The Ponca fields remain the best place to see elk. There was a report of a brief fight in the field this morning, and there was a satellite bull that spent some time in the wooded area by the Ponca Access. 

In the south end there were a few elk in a small group near the river.  That was about it for elk this morning.  I believe there are 2 herds in the area, 1 on private land behind the bible camp, and a second hanging around Big Hollow. There are a lot of bulls in the area following these herds. 

The Ponca fields have had a lot of wild turkey in them for a few weeks. 

Probably the other big show are the river otter at the Ponca low water bridge. There are 2 families of 4 otter frequenting the area and they have been observed by many photographers and wildlife watchers. I have hear reports of activity ranging from about 8 AM to 3 PM.  With 2 families in the area, it is worth checking to see if they are active.  They don't have a reliable pattern like the elk, but it is worthwhile to see if you can get them. 

5x5 Satellite Bull Crossing 21 -- Safety During the Rut

The big boys are joining the rut. When you least expect it, they run across the road this time of year.  Drive carefully, they are kind of distracted.  Try to keep you speed under 40 MPH.

Crossing 21 Near the Buffalo, South Valley

10/1/13 Elk Viewing Unaffected by Buffalo National River Closures

All the best elk viewing along Highways 43 and 21 in Boxley Valley is not impacted by the park closure.

The Buffalo National River has closed all river activities until further notice. If you camp to watch the elk, there are affordable private campgrounds in the upper river area.  Visit http://buffaloriverchamber.com for a directory of camping and lodging businesses.

This blog will keep you updated on the status of the park closing.

While I Have Your Attention . . .

The rut will pretty much end in 2 months or so, but the show will not be over.  Those of us who have been shooting elk a few years will attest that photographing bull elk is very good through March as the picture below shows.  Thought I would let you know while I have your attention. 

Great Bull Elk Photography Lasts Through March 

9/27/13 Elk Herd Locations

Elk herd locations are pretty stable, but more bulls are showing up every day.  The biggest herd is near the Ponca Access. That bull was skittish this morning and patrolling the cane line anticipating another bull.  There was a second herd down by 43/21 and a 3rd down by Cave Mountain Road.

Lots of elk watchers today including out of state people.  This year Estes Park was trashed by floods that have wiped out many roads.  Ponca and Boxley Valley are a great alternative to Estes Park and for many Estes Park fans much closer and lodging is very affordable here.  For information on lodging choices and prices, there is no better source than the Buffalo River Chamber of Commerce site a http://buffaloriverchamber.com.

Finding Bull Elk Fights -- Lesson #1: Listening

Locating and Predicting Bull Elk Fights Lesson #1:  Listening

Boxley Valley is a big place, but if you learn to listen for fights your chances improve for locating one.  I have located a few elk fights by listening -- it is one of the reasons I work alone most of the time. When I am working the rut, I concentrate pretty hard. I am watching elk movements, and I am listening. People will see me parked in front of an empty field with my windows down and imagine I am nuts.  Nope, I am working -- listening.  

The Sounds of Bull Fights (and Coming Fights)

The first and most obvious sound of a bull fight is the crashing of antlers.  If you are paying attention, you can hear two big bulls mixing it up at least a half mile away. The big fight my wife videoed started out of view in the river, and only then moved to the Smith Creek field.  Listen more, talk less.  Turn off your radio and pay attention. 

Note the charging challenger bull in the distance. He is coming to
fight, setup by a special type of counter-bugling explained below. 

The second and less obvious sound of a coming bull fight is bugling, a special type of bugling.  It is a special type of "counter-bugling", when bulls bugle back and forth to announce their territories. Regular counter bugling has a relaxed pace.  Pre-fight counter-bugling is quite different.

So how is it different?  Well, the frequency of counter-bugles becomes steadily faster.  What was relaxed and occasional becomes more frequent, AND, the tone changes, especially for the herd bull. The herd bull's bugle will become somewhat lower, and gravelly in tone, and I swear you can hear his rage.  His hormones are raging and he has blood in his eye.

You can hear the challenger bull coming even if he is not visible, he is getting closer and louder.  Scan the cane line because he is coming, and the herd bull knows it.  Suddenly you will see the challenger bull break out of the cane line and run to challenge the herd bull (as above in the distance, not the little one behind).

As they get closer together, bugling gets more frequent as both bulls jack up the emotion. I have seen them right beside one another bugling up a storm before they lock up.

This is pretty exciting stuff.  Hearing the build up to a real deal bull fight between two of the big dogs is really something.  The buildup to a fight is really exciting.

So this is Lesson #1.  Listen, and pay attention, always.  If you do, you can quickly locate an oncoming fight if you are fairly nearby. Understanding how counter-bugling works helps you evaluate watching one elk herd vs. another when you have choices.  If you make the wrong choice, you can ID a bull elk fight in a nearby field and get there.  Remember, your brain is the most important photo tool you have, keep it in gear.  Concentrate.

I Relocated to this Bull Fight By Listening a Half Mile Away

9/24/13 Elk Herd Location Map

Elk viewing remains very good with 3 herds in Boxley Valley from end to end.  See map below.  

New bulls are now arriving every day, signalling that we are steadily notching up in the rut.  There are also stragglers and maveric bulls here and there.  Things are very dynamic now and the pace of change is picking up. 

If you plan to visit, the next week or so is when the action really ramps up. I reviewed my records and bull fights are most common from now through the 2nd week of October.  Nobody can guarantee you will see a bull fight, but your percentages are the best during this period.  

Ozark Mountain Artist Tour This Weekend

Friday, Saturday and Sunday the 7th Annual Ozark Mountain Artist Tour will take place in Newton County. This is a perfect event to combine with your elk viewing. Hours are from 11AM - 6PM Friday and Sunday, and from 10AM to 6PM on Saturday.

Why not arrive early to Boxley Valley, watch the elk, then take the free artists tour, and return to the valley for evening elk viewing.  This free event perfectly complements elk viewing.

For more information http://ozarkmountainartists.com.  PDF printable map.  The map for the event is below (click map to enlarge):

Map for This Weekend's Ozark Mountain Artist's Tour

3/29/13 Elk Viewing Very Good, Wildflowers Rebound & Resume the 2013 Bloom

Rue Anemones Are Blooming

Elk viewing is very good now. This morning, in spite of morning thunderstorms, elk were out grazing. Elk love rain, so viewing should be good all weekend.

April 1 is the rough date of the annual antler drop.  I did not see any bulls without antlers, but the "drop" will happen any time now. It is illegal to collect sheds on the NPS park lands.

The wildflowers have rebounded from a second bout of winter weather. Last week I made no entry because I could not get off the mountain -- we had nearly an inch of ice on the ground. The following days were bitter cold, perhaps colder than any time in the winter with windchills as low as 8 degrees.

Twice this year wildflowers blossomed in warm weather, and were hammered by cold weather. So far as I can tell, this double reset has had little effect. The one species that is at the end of its bloom cycle is the white trout lily.  There are still small pockets of them here and there, and I am sure other wildflower venues might be at peak for this species.

Today a few species were added to the first bloom dates. Rue anemone, blood root and pale corydalis are now blooming. This is early for blood root and there are few plants. I expect a longer than usual bloom for this species because of the oddball weather patterns.  One the way now are trillium sessile. Lots baby wildflowers are evident.  The cut leaf toothworts appear to be in peak bloom.

If foliage is any indicator, this will be the best year for wildflowers in recent memory. I know the species locations of many varieties, and the footprint for them has expanded greatly. I am sure this is attributable to the rain patterns.

11/16/12 Picture of the Day -- All Bull Herd

There are still 3 or 4 bulls rutting with cow elk harems, but the same gender herds are forming in Boxley Valley. This is a picture of part of one of the all bull herds. There are now two. 

This morning the herd positions remained unchanged. If you want to see or photograph the herds, there is nothing quite like the early morning. I was back home today before 8AM. The elk were still out, but they slowly move away from the road.

Today's Picture 11/8/12

This bull elk, "Little Fork", was the herd bull in the Ponca Fields herd. This picture is of him crossing the Buffalo National River moving his herd far south in an uncommon move through multiple zones in a single day. 

The bull is always last when they move. The lagging cow elk and her calf  are at the end of the line with a few shag bulls. The herd is heading for the south end fields, time will tell where they end up. 

11/4/12 Elk Herd Locations & Notes

Lots of elk this morning between the entrance to Lost Valley and the Ponca Access. Many bulls and lots of bugling. The setting seems ripe for a bull fight today or tomorrow, but only time will tell. A second nice herd is just north of the the old sawmill on the south end.

Perfect weather has many visiting the valley today. Be careful to park off the road and watch for pedestrians.

Whitetail deer are running everywhere due to the hunt. I had deer run in front of my car both to and from the valley today. Watch for deer and drive a bit slower.

11/2/12 Elk Herd Location Report

Elk herd locations remain pretty stable. Outstanding cool weather has led to longer viewing hours, but reliable viewing is still at the ends of the day.

4 herds were active in Boxley Valley this morning. Viewing remains mostly from the 43/21 intersection to the Ponca Access. Lost Valley remains possible and it worth checking.

The 11/2/12 map is below:

Elk Herd Locations 11/2/12 in Boxley Valley near Ponca

11/1/12 The Late Rut & What's Ahead

Where Are We At Now?
At the beginning of November the rut is slowing down, but it is far from over. There will be big bulls "running cows" until after Thanksgiving, and there is usually a bull or two that will still be rutting in December. This means that the rut actually stretches out to 3 months, even though it peaks in October. 

Bull in Rut in Lost Valley in Heavy Frost -- 11/25

The annual fall elk show lasts longer than most believe. Cow elk return to being "in heat" until they are successfully bred on 30 day cycles . So there are multiple overlapping cycles until the rut is done. October is the peak, but the second smaller estrous cycle is in November, and there is a much smaller one in December. The handful of very small calf elk you see in the valley now are 3rd estrous calves and were probably born in August. 

I photographed a bull fight in mid-November, and I have seen bull fights at the end of November. Bugling continues, but it is less common. 

Late rut elk watching is in cold weather and it often lasts all day long. I still prefer early and late elk viewing because the elk are more likely to be close to the roads and active. As a photographer I also prefer the light early and late. 

Bull Elk Photography Gets Better
Bull elk photography actually improves as the rut slows down, and it continues to be very good until the antler drop in April. The reason is that post-rut, cow and bull elk split into sex-based herds. This means that all-bull herds begin to form from the end of the rut, and they last until the next rut. For serious bull elk photographers, this is a bonanza of big bull photo opportunities that don't even exist during the rut. 

Big Bulls Sparring in March (Big Bull Herd)

All-bull elk herds tend to further break down by the size of the bulls. There is generally a big bull herd, basically 5x5's and bigger that will form. I consider getting pictures of these bulls to be trophy shots. If you are an antler fan, there is nothing better. 

Another part of post-rut elk watching and photography is snow and frost. In snow, elk are illuminated by reflected light from below. It is true that snow makes a scene more contrasty and a challenge to get, but opening up the dark areas on an elk's neck is always a challenge and snow or thick frost can actually help with fill light. 

Post-rut bull shots should be on everyone's "bucket list" for viewing or photography. Pictures of big bulls in groups happen at no other time. 

10/31/12 Final October Elk Herd Map

This morning there were 4 elk herds in Boxley Valley and straggler elk elsewhere. Some imagine that the rut is over, but it is only slowly tailing off. Elk viewing and photography will be very good for some time to come.  Tomorrow I will post an entry about how to think about this point in the rut, and it will show pictures taken in the past much later than this date.

Great action is far from over and it will extend until next year. In many ways the months ahead offer great opportunities to see and photograph the biggest elk.

This morning I had a pretty good shoot, but it turned out to be elk, a juvenile otter and a whitetail buck crossing the Buffalo. You never know what you will see when you visit the Buffalo National River. The elk were still out when I left the valley at 10 AM.

Final October Elk Herd Locations 

10/24/12 Elk Herd Locations & Report

Elk viewing this morning was difficult due to heavy fog. There were a number of elk herds out, and going forward weather is transitioning to cold weather by the weekend. This means elk viewing should be improve steadily. Rainy weather will only improve viewing unless there are thunderstorms.
It is still a little too early to call the weekend weather except the temperatures in the 50's.

Today's elk herd locations are below: