Great Elk Viewing Weather Starts Sunday

Great elk viewing weather begins Sunday with projected high temperatures in the 70's, and high temperatures from the 70's to 80 and nightly lows in the 50's through next Friday, September 9th. After what seems like a lifetime of 90 degree weather, this is great news.

We are in another crossover period, this time crossing over from a very hot and dry summer to an early fall weather pattern. This has been a very tough year to be sure.

Looking for Love -- And Not Vehicles

Elk viewing should be outstanding but this is still not the rut, but it is pre-rut. Understand that elk don't like sunlight unless the weather is quite cool. If the forecast holds, we can expect extended viewing times this week, probably a couple of hours longer on each end of the day.

The story is still the unfolding 2011 Arkansas elk rut. If past year patterns hold, we will see the earliest rutting behavior in two weeks. One week later, about the third week in September, the rut will hit stride.

Elk Viewing Fundamentals
First, to locate elk, travel the entire length of the valley from the 74/43 intersection to the trailhead to the Upper Buffalo River Wilderness.  The traditional hot spots for elk are the first few fields on the north end of the valley, and the fields near the intersection of highways 43 and 21.

Do not stop at the elk viewing pullout near Lost Valley and wait to see elk, they are there 1% of the time at most. They aren't coming either. I have been told they don't like the grass that is there, but it is clear that pullout is not a favorite haunt for Boxley Valley elk.

There are two reasons to check all the fields. First, elk may be observed in all the fields one time or another. The often migrate for better forage -- traditional hot spots often go dead for days. Second, while there might be elk in one field, much better elk viewing may be just down the road. Survey the entire valley to assure you don't stop for ordinary elk viewing and miss out on great elk viewing just a bit further down the road. Stopping at the first elk is a standard rookie error.

Drive slowly 45 mph or slower. Braking improves dramatically at slow speeds. During the rut elk are nuts, especially bull elk. The heartbreak of testosterone overdrive translates to single-mindedness. Elk looking for love don't see much else. Elk on the roadside will bolt in front of you. Herds often cross roads. Boxley Valley has many blind curves and rises. Going 45 or so will only cost you 3 minutes the length of Boxley Valley.

Elk Crossing at 43/21 Intersection

Elk viewers seem absolutely unaware of what is going on around them. EXPECT elk watchers to open doors into traffic lanes, to step out suddenly from between cars, and to sit on the ground between cars, hidden from view. Expect kids to jump in front of you. Go slow and watch the road in these situations.

Respect private property. Don't climb fences, stay off private land (it is all private), and don't chase the elk. Nothing is more idiotic than chasing elk, they just run away and you get nothing. If you want a close-up picture of an elk you need a big lens. My standard rig includes a 100-400mm zoom.

Respect the elk. While Boxley Valley elk are used to human contact, they are still wild animals. Get close to an elk and you might just get stomped. Cow elk with calves are dangerous animals. Bull elk looking for love might think you are a competitor (yes, I have been false charged by bull elk). Every few years somebody gets stomped. Remember, natural selection applies to people as well as animals.

For elk viewing information and the location of the herds contact the Ponca Elk Education Center at 870-861-2432. I recommend visiting the facility as well. It is nationally recognized and arguably the best wildlife education center in the state of Arkansas. At the center you will find maps and information on elk and other wildlife. Kids will love the exhibits, free posters and paper antlers. The center is free of charge. 

First Bugle of 2011 Elk Rut in Arkansas

August 31 was the first elk bugle of the year. Oddly, this is the same date as last year.

I did see a huge bull yesterday and it was early. As I have written so many times, the really big bulls arrive at the elk rut around October 1 if one can generalize.

Right now there are at least two bulls in Boxley Valley hanging around with cow herds. Again, this is very early, but typical. These early bulls are large, but they are not the huge herd bulls. The two I have seen still have bits of velvet on their antlers.

We are now in the steady build up to the rut. It always feels like Christmas. In around two to three weeks the fireworks begin. Bugling will become common.

I am covering the elk rut probably 5 days out of  7 now. Look for news on this blog at least every couple of days. This is prime time in Boxley Valley.

Time to plan your visits. I recommend spacing them through the rut to get the best chances. You can find cabins at http://buffaloriverchamber.com.  The elk are located in the upper and middle river areas of the Buffalo National River.

In-Depth Elk Rut Coverage Begins Next Week

It's finally time. Time for the annual Arkansas elk rut, the 2011 edition.

Arkansas Wildlife Magazine Back Cover,
Many Would Ignore This Chance

The real action for the elk rut begins just 3 weeks from now. At that time, the arrival of the big bulls signals the annual spectacle of bugling and periodic bull fights. Until then, bull elk and cow elk have been in separate herds since the last rut. The annual mating ritual will begin.

Photographers will want to prepare for the elk season. There are a few fundamental that matter most.

First, careful thought must be given to exposure. Elk are a very dark subject -- it is pretty easy to get the exposure too dark and lose detail as a result. For example, dew-laden grass can be pretty bright. Elk shot against this backdrop need to be over-exposed. Elk shot in dark conditions can be overexposed and washed out, so under-exposure might be needed. It might be worthwhile to visit Boxley Valley and photograph cow elk to get a feel for this often challenging subject.

Second, it is time to think about poses. It is nice to get your first picture of a big bull, but it is much better to get one posed in an interesting way. You can practice this away from the camera through visualization. I like to visualize poses, and the movements that lead to them in my easy chair. This is not only body position, it is about the direction of the light as well.

Third, think also about poses that others do not take. I have one bull picture that got the back cover of Arkansas Wildlife Magazine.  It is head down with light cutting across his body. My companion at the time did not take a single frame of this. He was not thinking of elk as an artistic subject, but only an animal. Step outside of convention by pre-visualization. If you have pre-visualized a shot or pose, you will anticipate it and recognize it when it occurs.

Third, look at the work of other wildlife photographers and attempt to understand what they were doing. This is closely related to the second point. See how they stretch, consider how you might do the same. Those who imagine artists are not deliberate in straining against their limits don't understand the creative process.

Photographers need to practice basic skills and pre-visualization much as athletes do practice drills. Practice conditions your instincts and ability to react to an opportunity when it arises. As someone once said, "chance favors a prepared mind". Do your homework and you will achieve results at a new level.

Inflection Point

Big Bull in Late Velvet, Boxley Valley 7/30/11 6:30AM

To put it mildly, this late spring and summer have been "biblical" weather.  Super heavy rain gave way to our current extreme heat and drought, now about 2 months old. For any nature photographer these challenges contain within them unusual opportunities. At the same time, the first stage of the annual elk rut is upon us.

Big bull elk are now entering about the last two weeks of their velvet period. I took some pictures of some nice bulls this morning in velvet. Little anter growth remains, it is now pretty easy to pick out the contenders in this year's elk rut.

This is the general 2011 elk rut timetable:

• Mid August to mid September big bulls scrape velvet
• Early rut begins in the third week in September (bugling begins)
• First bull fights for domination 3rd week in September to first week in October
• Elk rut continues until November through multiple estrous cycles
• Some very late breeding in December, but generally the rut is over

The steps above are a yearly pattern that has held over many years. There will always be animals that start early or late and extend either side of this calendar. These outlying behaviors are natures hedge against calamities. If the worst happens, some animals will breed, and the species will abide. 

Visitors to Boxley Valley will usually see big bulls at the ends of the day, but I believe the very early morning is most reliable. As long as we are in this extreme heat, the elk are heading for cover as early as 7AM. This morning it was 6:45. In this heat, the elk generally become more nocturnal.

Most elk calves are now 2 months old, but there is always a crop that are born from the second and third estrous. A couple years back we saw a newborn around the first of August, pretty clearly a third estrous calf. Recently there has been a large cow and calf elk herd down by the south trailhead to the Upper Buffalo River Wilderness. Remember that a cow elk with a calf is maybe the most dangerous elk there is. She will attack you and stomp you. This seems to have to happen every few years for tourists to remember. 

I will be writing a lot during the rut, complete with pictures. 

Rush Landing is Open, Lost Valley Still Closed

Rush has been re-opened, including the launch.

There is little other to report on to update the status of the Buffalo National River post flood. The remaining outstanding closings of the highest priority are Lost Valley and the Gilbert Launch (4WD vehicles only now). Additional crews start Monday to expand the cleanup and repair efforts.

It is still unclear if Lost Valley will be re-opened by the 14th. It suffered extensive damage to the entrance road, hiking trails, and the bridge was washed out.

In other business the park has surveyed all the middle and lower river hiking trails and did not find enough damage to close them. The upper river trails are all open, assessment of them will be completed Monday.

This weekend is the first truly great floating weekend. Sunday temperatures in the mid-80's are predicted and water levels are ideal for floating. Visit the http://buffaloriverchamber.com website for information on river levels and to locate outfitters.

Lost Valley is Closed until the 14th (at least)

Lost Valley Campground and hiking trail is closed this weekend, and possibly through the weekend of the 14th. The problem is extensive trail damage.

I will be keeping everyone up to date through this blog.

MD

Buffalo River Conditions -- 5/3/11 Update

Update 5/4/11 PM  Lost Valley will be re-opened before bridge repairs are completed. Visitors will be allowed to wade across Clark Creek.

Update 5/4/11   Steel Creek campground is now open.

April turned out to be a very tough month weather-wise. Toward the end of the month we got into an amazing wet weather pattern that sent the Buffalo National River into flood stage 3 or 4 times, depending on how you look at it.

We received 14.7 inches of rain in April, mostly at the end of the month, and 2.7 inches of rain the first two days of May. 17.4 inches of rain has saturated the ground. River levels remain high as this is written but are returning to excellent floating conditions by tomorrow.

Waterfall fans will want to visit, but check first on what destinations are still open. Lost Valley is not open. If you go to back country locations, 4wd is probably essential.

There has been significant damage to the Buffalo National River. Lost Valley campground is closed. At this time there is no target date to get them back on line, but they are the top priorities.

There will be more to report in a few days. With the ground saturated it is impossible to accurately predict when work can begin. The good news is that there is no significant rain in the forecast.

The Buffalo River will return to excellent floating levels for everyone in a day or so. The cold weather appears to be ending as well and this coming weekend promises to be nice weather in the upper 70's.

The park will have a report on the plan for repairs later this week. At that time I will write a more in-depth report on the plans to restore the park to full function.

I encourage everyone to visit the Buffalo River Chamber of Commerce website for up-to-date information on river levels and floating conditions. Call any of the outfitters and learn first hand about conditions. As this is written, Tuesday May 3rd, the Ponca Gauge shows the river returning to normal floating conditions probably within the hour.  http://buffaloriverchamber.com for up-to-date information.

More information coming in the next few days.