9/28 Elk and Boxley Valley Report

It feels now like we are entering the customary fall rut. Boxley Valley now has hundreds of viewers of all ages from all over Arkansas and adjoining states. Many rely on these reports to plan their visits. The elk are cooperating with bugling and herd movements especially in the north end of the valley closest to Ponca. Safety is now becoming an issue with so many people milling around the parked cars. Visitors with children need to keep them close, unfortunately drivers continue to speed through the viewing areas. Please drive slowly, watch the road, and never double park. There has never been a fatality but those of us who follow the rut are very aware of the danger. I would say if you are coming to hear bugling you need to visit zone 1 (see map) closest to Ponca morning or evening. Picture taking is easier in the evening when there is no fog. I prefer mornings because the elk are closer to the fences.  We are still in the peak bull fight period. There are reports of fights and evidence of them in slightly wounded bulls. In other wildlife attractions, there is a single trumpeter swan on the mill pond. River otter continue to be very active just downstream from the Ponca Low Water bridge most often in late morning around 10AM. Otter are a bit hard to spot, look for feeding in the weed beds and ripples and wakes. It is a treat to see otter and photograph them. Otter seldom sit still.  The good news is that feeding begins when sunlight hits the pools, so you can set your camera up for a fast shutter speed.  I like to shoot at least at F8 so focusing is easier. 

River Otter Low Water Bridge Pool

The river otter family I have photographed a few times was in the pool just downsteam from the low water bridge at the Ponca Access this morning at 9:30 AM. Not sure this pattern will repeat reliably, but I know quite a few photographers who are interested in otter. Look for ripples along the banks and you might see them. Otter are curious and will stop and look at you (like below).  I usually over-expose to get more detail in the dark areas that tend to block up. 

My survey of the valley showed no elk this morning. Typically in 90 degree weather the elk pack it in early as soon as the sunlight hits the fields. If you want to see elk I recommend getting to the valley before 7AM. 

River Otter at Ponca Access, Buffalo Ntional River

1/1/14 Elk Herd Location Map

Elk showed up for new years day.  With the exception of an all bull herd just north of the mill pond, the elk were near the Buffalo River in the south end, and again in the deep south end past the trailhead.

No otter today when I was around the pond, but there is no reason to believe they are not there for a stay. There are a lot of fish in the pond, and the river is running relatively hard and has less fish. I would definitely check for otter in the pond in any visit to the valley. There has been an eagle hanging out around the mill pond as well recently.

12/31/13 Elk Herd Locations -- Otter in Mill Pond

Elk end the year in remote locations.  The bull herd that has been about a half mile north of the mill pond was visible today, but back against the cane line.

In the deep south end, the herd has shifted to the southernmost field south of the trail head. They have been moving around from the Smith Creek field, so I would expect they might be back there in a day or two.

The big news this morning was 3 feeding in the mill pond. I am pretty sure this is the juvenile group I photographed earlier in the year. This was about 8:30 AM if you are trying to get some otter shots, though otter are never very predicable.

There is also a bald eagle hunting the mill pond. This morning he was there for over 40 minutes rotating between different perch locations. All of them were close to the road.

Yet Another Otter Picture

Still digging through my October 11 shoot on the Ponca Low Water bridge and finding pictures I need to process.  This is a pretty good picture of an otter eating a goggle eye.  I interpreted it this time as a 12x6 and sharpened it with FocusMagic. FocusMagic is worth checking out if you have not tried it.

Just as a reminder.  Always check the Ponca low water bridge both up and downstream for otter.  Look for surface disturbances.  You can get close to these animals without disturbing them if you keep quiet and move carefully. They are not afraid of people.

12x6 Interpretation of Otter eating a Goggle Eye

10/21/13 Elk Herd Locations & Report

Elk viewing improved a lot today with a herd near the Ponca Access.  The bull and a few cows even went into the river for a while and provided photographers with some pretty good pictures.  Elsewhere in the valley there were stragglers, but more than in recent days. A couple of bulls sparred for a while down by Moore Creek.  There was some bugling this morning too.

Perhaps we can get  back on track now with normal viewing.  The weather is cool, fall color is peaking and conditions are ideal for the elk herds.

I got a report that the otter are in the Buffalo behind the Steel Creek tent campground.

Another Otter Picture

3 of the 4 otter running along the bluff just upstream from the Ponca Access.  From my October 11 shoot.

River Otter Running Along Bluff

10/14/13 Elk Herd Locations & Report

The Ponca fields remain the best place to see elk. There was a report of a brief fight in the field this morning, and there was a satellite bull that spent some time in the wooded area by the Ponca Access. 

In the south end there were a few elk in a small group near the river.  That was about it for elk this morning.  I believe there are 2 herds in the area, 1 on private land behind the bible camp, and a second hanging around Big Hollow. There are a lot of bulls in the area following these herds. 

The Ponca fields have had a lot of wild turkey in them for a few weeks. 

Probably the other big show are the river otter at the Ponca low water bridge. There are 2 families of 4 otter frequenting the area and they have been observed by many photographers and wildlife watchers. I have hear reports of activity ranging from about 8 AM to 3 PM.  With 2 families in the area, it is worth checking to see if they are active.  They don't have a reliable pattern like the elk, but it is worthwhile to see if you can get them. 

Spotting Otter on the Buffalo River

Spotting otter on the Buffalo River is first about staying alert, and then second about knowing what to look for.  Often I have found otter only by seeing pool ripples that come from the river bank instead of in the pool like a fish would make. Waiting a bit has often led me to an otter eating in a snag that was not very visible. 

If I am trying to spot otter from a distance, I look for surface disturbances including churning. You can see these at 100 yards if you pay attention. Another long distance clue is showing in the picture below. Blue heron will follow feeding otter.  If you see a blue heron that is not very timid, that can be a strong clue. If it flies short distances like 10 yards or so and settles, then repeats, it could well be following otter.  The two clues together is just about a lock.  (I have seen 2 blue herons follow one otter family.)

Once spotted, you can hike or wade to where the otter are as a rule. They are not afraid of humans unless you really thrash around. I have shot them for as long as a half hour or more. Otter often will come very close to check you out.  I had a family of 4 stop feeding once and swim up 10 yards away from me and pose on a stump while checking me out.  Otter are fun to photograph and watch and usually put on a very interesting show. 

Photographers remember otter are a very dark subject. Depending on conditions (and your metering settings) you might have to overexpose a full stop to get any detail in their fur.  Often you cannot because they are coated with water. 

Blue Heron Follow Otter to Get Scraps and Fish

Otter Hunting in Buffalo Sequence

I am still digging through otter photos from my recent shoot.  They are pretty hard to post process because you have brilliant water with highlights and a very dark subject often coated in water.  It was difficult to match up the light to present the photos as a set.

These 2 pictures are in sequence, first showing the otter swimming out from the bank, then all beginning their dives to rake through gravel on the bottom of the pool.  The mother is completely upside down, the juveniles are scoping out their dive.

Otter Swimming Out to Hunt in the Pool -- Mother Leading

The Mother is Diving to the Bottom, the Juveniles are Scoping Out Their Dive

This sequence is pretty typical if you ever get to see an otter family feed.  It is repeated as they feed and relocate. I was lucky to get the mother upside down while the little guys were still looking down. All of this can happen very fast so the timing is impossible. This is in 2 frames maybe 1 second apart.

Another tip.  This is a long subject. I cropped these images to a 12x4 (3:1) format to focus in on the subject.  In both images the bodies of the otter for a soft curve, especially the second photo.  The curve is accentuated by the long narrow image format.

3 Swimming Juvenile Otters Hunting the River Bank

The 3 juvenile otter foraging.  They are about half grown and not afraid of photographers.

3 Otter Feeding Along the River Bank

Crossing the Bar

Otter Family Crossing the Gravel Bar

2/1/13 Elk Viewing Great

Elk and wildlife viewing is very good now in Boxley Valley. This morning there were 4 herds visible and 2 were very close to the road. It was 18 degrees, perfect elk weather.

On the mill pond there has been pretty big flock of ducks now for a couple of weeks. The 2 resident trumpeter swans add to the show.  Yesterday there was a bald eagle hunting the pond, and this morning there were 2 otter.

Expect wildflowers to bloom early this year. Warm weather has them sprouting already. I photographed the first bloom of 2013 a few days ago -- Dead Nettle. I am certain Harbinger of Spring will show up next week at the latest, and shortly thereafter the rest of the early spring crew.

River Otter 9/24/12 AM

The Buffalo National River is full of otter, mink and beaver. Otter in particular are not very afraid of humans and can offer a great photo opportunity or they are just fun to watch. Otter have a distinctive long tapered tail and a back hump that makes them easy to ID.

While the drought and low water conditions have killed the floating season in the upper river, the pooled up river is very good for photographers and wildlife watchers. All animals need water so simply sitting near a good water hole will often lead to great results.

Hunting the Buffalo National River

This is the adult otter moving down the shoreline of the Buffalo National River. Note the long tapered tail.

Juvenile Otter Hunting

These juvenile otter were hunting together, a fairly common observance. The one on the left got the fish, the one on the right turned around and gave chase like a good sibling.

Blue Heron Hunting with Otter

Spotting otter is not easy. Often you will see blue heron (above) working the same pool as otter attempting to pick up scraps.  If you see surface disturbances and a heron flying to them, you may well be looking at feeding otter. Often the clues are subtle, but patience and careful observation pay off. 

Better Lucky than Good Revisited

Occasionally things break my way. Otter have been a problem species for me, not that they are so hard to find, but they are so uncooperative photographically. It is definitely a whack-a-mole sort of proposition. Low water conditions concentrate wildlife and make these pictures easier.

I got a family picture recently. 4 otter fed in a pool in front of me for an hour, then mysteriously lined up in a posed shot, with three little ones and mom (at water level).

These sorts of shoots are what wildlife photographers live for. Too many otter pictures are not in a natural setting. If you have to good fortune to stumble on a group of otter, it is a real treat. Of course, you can depend on lousy light very often so ISO 2000 might be required.

Otter Family, Buffalo National River August 2012

What is the lesson here? Pay attention. I got these guys while seeking elk photos. I would prefer to have everyone believe that I plan all these shoots. The truth is I am very opportunistic and look for the unexpected chance.

Experience has taught me to concentrate. I turn off the radio while shooting and I scan for opportunities. One reason I work alone most of the time is because I need to concentrate. The habit of paying attention (and being determined) has given me pictures I would not expect to get. Like most things, the most important tool you have is your brain -- keep it in gear.

While Waiting for Elk, Wild Turkey Crossed the Buffalo

Perhaps My Best Photo, The Result of Observation and Grinding (and Luck)

1/20/12 Fog, But 30 Elk, 2 Otter and 2 Bald Eagles

Typical Post-Rut Bull Herd, Prince and the Boys

Today there was only one herd in the valley and it was in the field adjacent to the Ponca Access. Because of the weather, I think the elk around the 43/21 intersection were holed up.

The high point this morning was otter feeding in the Boxley Mill Pond. I watched them for about a half hour swimming in the north end of the pond under the watchful gaze of two bald eagles. I have seen otter in the mill pond recently a few times. If you visit keep your eyes peeled for them.

This weekend should be excellent for all kinds of photography. These frontal changes and somewhat stormy weather generally provide diffuse light and nice cloud formations. If you like to take landscape photos, partly cloudy weather definitely beats a cloudless blue sky.

Updated map is below. There are now about 30 elk visible in the valley.